Whisky Review: Hibiki "Japanese Harmony"

I'm at a downtown bookstore with Keith.  We are sitting opposite each other with our respective purchases.  I clutch Hunter S. Thompson's The Rum Diary, and a steaming black coffee, while Keith balances a direct-from-Japan manga trade paperback on his lap, and enjoys a double espresso.

It's a Saturday night.  The wife kicked me out of the house for the evening because she was holding a Gilmore Girls marathon with a friend.  As water seeks its own level, I rang up Keith.

"I am thinking about posting a review of a Japanese whisky," I say changing the topic abruptly from our mutual vent session directed at the writers of the original Star Trek series for never having an episode where Captain Kirk and crew beam down to a planet where the inhabitants are naked.

"Do me and the world a favor by not telling stupid ass stories."  Keith stared out the window at the howling wind that caused the curbside snowbank to drift into the street.  "Straight review."  He took a sip of his espresso, and added, "That's what people want."

"Boring," I replied.  "Trotting out a little distillery history, regurgitating corporate marketing material and officially sanctioned tasting notes with high resolution stock photos has been done to death."  I enjoyed my Ethiopian java and noticed Keith doing some not so subtle surveillance of a middle-aged lady with a serious affinity for leopard print.  She looked his way.  Caught in her gaze, he was a trembling antelope.

"And stop writing about me.  That is not cool."  He sat up in his chair a bit.  The slouch was gone.  Ms. Leopard had returned to her Cosmopolitan.  "You deleted that post, right?"

"Yup, it's gone."

"So, what's the deal with the Japanese whisky?"  He rolled back the cuff of his  olive green, '60's vintage US army combat field jacket to glance at his diver's watch.

"Dunno.  I am looking for a hook, an interesting segue into it."

"Just make sure I am not a part of it.  OK?"

"Got it."

The sky was pitch black with twinkling stars above the soft glow of the street light.  A cloudless, wintry night told me it was getting colder by the minute.  I glanced away from the street to see my friend was no longer in his chair.  The Antelope had left me and was chatting up the Leopard.  I finished my cup of joe knowing full well I had been abandoned in this urban savanna.

"I'm heading out," I muttered as I breezed by Keith.  I glanced at his new found friend's left hand, resting atop a Michael Kors bag, and was relieved not to see any gold band or tag suggesting she was considered an endangered species by someone else.

"Nice seeing you again," he said like we just ran into each other by accident while ordering skinny vanilla bean lattes rather than how it really went down with me picking him up at his mom's place.

I drove back to my house, marched upstairs, out of earshot of the giggling Gilmore Girls revival going on in the basement, and decided to try and write a 'straight review.'

Japanese Whisky
We all know that Scotland has a rich 200 year plus history of distilling whisky.  Japan, not so long.

The Japanese whisky industry started in 1923 with the founding of the first malt distillery, Yamazaki.  Today, the distillery is still in operation and is owned by Suntory.  In 1934, the Scottish trained Yamazaki master distiller, Masataka Taketsuru, bolted from Yamazaki in order to set up his own distillery in Yoichi that eventually became Nikka, another juggernaut of Japanese whisky distilling that has become a rival to Suntory.

Hibiki
I am familiar with the Hibiki brand, having enjoyed the 17 and 21 year olds.  The 17 is among my top three bottles of all time.  A blended whisky that somehow manages to deliver complexity of flavors superior to nearly all single malts I have known.  The 21 is excellent too, but I favor the 17.  What is also amazing about these two offerings is that in a blind taste test I am sure that most people would automatically assume they are sampling a single malt from Speyside.  Hibiki is one of those rare blended whiskies that fools everyone into thinking they are drinking a single malt.

So, it is with pretty lofty expectations that I sampled the latest release under this label: Japanese Harmony.

Category
Blended Japanese Whisky

Composition
60% malt, 40% grain whiskies.  Malt whiskies come from the Yamazaki and Hakushu distilleries while the grain whiskies originate from the Chita distillery.  These three distilleries are owned by Suntory.  In Japan, the owners of distilleries do not sell their whiskies outside their corporate conglomerate.  So, Suntory owns all the whisky distilleries spirits going into their blends, whereas in Scotland, it is common business practice for distilleries to sell stocks unwanted to anyone, even competitors, if the price is right.

Wood Management
The whiskies have been aged in American white oak, sherry casks and Japanese (mizunara) oak.

Price
$100 (in Canada)

ABV
43%

Chill Filtered?
Probably.

Age Statement
None.

Nose (undiluted)
Buttery, floral, bergamot oranges, sherry, sandalwood/exotic oak.

Palate (undiluted)
Sweet up front, orange slices, blood oranges, raspberries, citrus, pomegranate, golden tree sap.

Finish (undiluted)
Pineapple, spiced malt notes interspersed with milk chocolate moving to drying grapefruit notes.  Part my lips and exhale and some smoke emerges.

Verdict
In a blind taste test, this could easily be mistaken for a young (e.g. 8-10 yr old) single malt.  There is no graininess or imbalance of flavors that is present with so many blended whiskies.  No bite or offensive alcohol notes here.  Hibiki Japanese Harmony is indeed harmonious.  Initially quite sweet, but it does dry up a bit by the finish, but not by much.  This is a sweet whisky overall.  It works for me.  If you like Dalwhinnie, Glenmorangie Nectar D'Or, Cragganmore 12 and Glenfiddich 15 Solera, then you will find Hibiki Harmony is in your wheelhouse.  Add a little water and you will taste more sherry and smoke.

Criticisms?  Price.  It is very expensive.  $100 in Canada and not cheap in the US I am sure.  For that price, I can buy some 18 year old single malt Scotch whiskies that will exhibit far more complexity.  Matter of fact, all of the aforementioned single malts are substantially cheaper than this Hibiki release.  For that reason, the chief problem with Hibiki Harmony is not the taste, the quality or anything to do with the whisky itself, but rather the price.  No value for money here.  If you buy this whisky, you are treating yourself, which I think is always nice to do from time to time.

Other than the price, I find it is a little light on complexity.  If you want complexity of flavors, you need age.  None of the whiskies making up Japanese Harmony taste young or cheap, but if they were given some more time in the cask, I think we would be rewarded with much more complexity, as is the case with the amazing Hibiki 17 and 21.  And this is a sticking point for me.  For the high price, I expect more complexity.  Compass Box whiskies are no age statement Scotches that exhibit tremendous complexity for a lot less money.  Try out Spice Tree for a prime example.

Japanese Harmony shares a lot of its flavor profile with the 17 year old bottling, but without the complexity.  So, it is fair to say that a lot of the house style of Hibiki is readily apparent in this bottling, and that is a good thing.  Unfortunately for you fans of Hibiki 12 years, I understand that Japanese Harmony is intended as a replacement.  The trend in Scottish producers to move away from age statements also seems to be happening in Japan.

Except for the price, I recommend this blended whisky.  If you are a novice and have the money to buy, I am certain that you will enjoy this fine whisky.  Connoisseurs will delight in Japanese Harmony because it delivers classic Speyside notes with a slight taste of Japanese oak.

Cheers!



Jason Debly

P.S.  Interested in more info?  Try my video review of this Japanese whisky:

Review: 21 year old Hibiki Suntory Whisky

Finally, after repeated invitations from my first cousin (HD), I managed to visit him and his family in the New York City area.

My family likes food.  Probably the understatement of the century!

I mean food is a real part of our culture.  Food and hospitality.  It is ingrained in our DNA. We can't help it.

You land at my house, I am offering you a drink, sweets and a sincere demand you stay for dinner.  It's a Middle Eastern thing. Well, more than a Middle Eastern cultural phenomenon.  My extended family is drawn from many different cultures stretching from Canada, through the Middle East, Srilanka and all the way to Japan.  So, when I landed at HD's casa, dinnertime appetizers looked like this:

At the top centre is a tray of sushi, in front of it is a bowl of pistachios and in the bottom left is a plate of kibbeh nayyeh.  Can't see it that well, ok, here's more food porn:

Is that the culinary version of the United Nations or what?

In any event, HD's plan was for all of us to enjoy a splendid meal and then finish the evening with a special treat: Hibiki 21 years Suntory Whisky

Trouble was this incredibly enjoyable meal went on for hours and I lack self-control, as I have never met a food I didn't like.  Plus, there was lamb to follow.  Oh, I didn't tell you about the lamb?  Here it is:

By the time I and the rest of the clan worked through some lamb, accompanied by Stag's Leap, we were stuffed.  Couldn't do the Hibiki.  She had to wait for another evening.

. . .

We finally tackled the Hibiki on another day, and this is what I came up with for a tasting note:

Nose (undiluted)
Concentrated notes of citrus, orange, coriander and malt.  Very floral, immaculate, the epitome of sophistication.  You just know the master blender spent just as much time trying to achieve these great scents as he did with the flavor profile.

Palate (undiluted)
Powerful beams of orange, tangerine, oak and sandalwood pour upon the palate.  Almonds, herbal like and stupefyingly beautiful oak notes abound too.

Body (undiluted)
Gorgeously rounded body that gracefully moves across the palate like Maria Sharapova on the courts of Wimbledon.

Finish (undiluted)
 Cappuccino, pistachio ice cream, old leather, all hosted by a delicate malt/oak embrace that is truly an affair to remember.

General Impressions
Simply fantastic whisky!  World class and fitting to be found only in the finest bars.  A whisky that can hold its own in the company of the best single malts of Scotland.

While this Japanese whisky is technically a blend, do not for a second think that such a fact of production is indicative of lesser quality.

I am convinced that in a blind tasting this whisky would easily be regarded as a single malt from Speyside which exhibits classic honey, sandalwood and oak profile.

. . .

Any Peat or Smoke?
I cannot criticize this whisky because I truly enjoy the honey/oak/nut flavor profile.  However, if you are seeking a lot of smoke and peat, then Hibiki 21 is not the answer.  Smoke is present but balanced and restrained.  The whisky has very little, if any, detectable peat.

Accordingly HD, being an enthusiastic peat and smoke fan, was more anxious for me to try his bottle of Springbank 15, but I will save that review for another post.

Cheers!


Jason Debly

P.S.  Thanks cousin for the great visit to NYC, the fine dining and whisky tastings!

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission (which may be granted if you ask nicely!)

Review: Nikka Taketsuru 12 Year Pure Malt

Summertime is the time for light tasting, effervescent whisky.  To that end, I thought I would review such a pure malt from Japan: Nikka Taketsure 12 year Pure Malt.

Nose (undiluted)
Fresh out of the oven dinner rolls; cloves; malt.

Palate (undiluted)
Sweet malt, firm body, green tea, ginger and an overall flavor profile that is somehow reminiscent of  that soft drink Fresca with a bite of grapefruit.  Gives new meaning to 'citrus' flavors in whisky.

Finish (undiluted)
Spicy zing of pepper, toast with marmalade and mint jelly.

General Impressions
In general, I have a very high opinion of Japanese whisky.  Say "Japanese whisky" and Hibiki 17, Yamazaki 12 and 15 come to mind.  Those are great whiskies.  Accordingly, I had high hopes.  Unfortunately, Nikka Taketsuru 12 year Pure Malt disappoints.

Abraham Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs

Remember that college psychology course that you slept through?  Do you remember anything?  Does the name Abraham Maslow ring a bell?  Hello?  Anybody there?



Abraham Maslow

 Ahh, don't feel embarassed.  I, too, regret not paying more attention in university.  Particularly to psychology courses.  I quickly dismissed it as bunk and switched out.  What a mistake that was. 

Anyway, I do remember Abraham Maslow.  You see this scholar studied highly successful people like Albert Einstein, instead of highly dysfunctional people, and developed a great theory of what successful, happy people have that the rest of humanity does not. 

Maslow theorized that people have varying needs (aren't best theories the most obvious and trite ones?).  There were the basic needs like food, shelter, sex (not sure that last item should be at the bottom of the pyramid . . .) that had to be met to function.  Above that were non-essential to life needs: to feel safe, secure, ownership of property that sort of thing.  Moving up that pyramid there were more elusive needs like: love . . . And if you had all that stuff, you could become self-actualized at the pinnacle once you became creative, moral, solved problems, and did what you found personally fulfilling in life.  This is the dumbed down version of course.  Check out this link to Wikipedia for a more learned discussion than I am capable of delivering (click here).

Now, you are thinking, "Jason, what the hell does Maslow have to do with a review of Nikka Pure Malt 12 year old whisky?" 

Here's the pitch:  Nikka Whisky doesn't lead to self-actualization.  It will meet your basic needs of being a decent, ok whisky.  It tastes smooth, has no bite, and in general a very tame, refreshing, summertime dram.  Moving up the pyramid of needs of the whisky nut:  it does gives you warmth and shelter from the cold weather, relief from the heat with a little ice, etc.  Hop up to the next level of the pyramid and Nikka Pure Malt falls short.  I'm not feeling the love.  It doesn't seduce me.  This bottle and I don't have a lot of respect for eachother.  We are strangers in the night.  That's about it.  No follow up the next morning.  Just me leaning out of bed and turning that clock radio ahead about 4 hours, and saying "Shit! I gotta get to work, or I'll be late.  Gotta go.  Had a lot of fun, see ya!"

Great whisky "completes me!" (to steal a line from the film Jerry Maguire).   It makes me whole!  Gives my life meaning!  I undergo, albeit temporarily self-actualization!  Hibiki 17, Highland Park 15 and 25 yrs, Famous Grouse 30 years all take me to the top of the hierarchy of needs of me the scotch nut.  Nikka Malt does not.  It's ho-hum.  Predictable, not boring, but not much challenge, nor much going on upstairs other than some zing and pepper mid-palate on top of the big citrus flavors.  Too much citrus based flavors.  Is this whisky or Fresca infused with whisky?  I need more for the high price!  Not worth the money in my estimation.  A satisfying whisky when your needs aren't too high up that hierarchy.  And there's nothing wrong with that, so long as you know yourself or "know thy self" to borrow a phrase from another great thinker: Socrates.

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2011. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission.

Review: Suntory Hibiki 17 years old Blended Japanese Whisky

 

Japanese Whisky
I am not an authority.  What little I have tried has impressed me.  In North America, Yamazaki 12 and 18 years are the most common.  The 12 is good.  The 18yrs is excellent.  These whiskies are proof that great single malts can be produced outside of Scotland.

Recently, I had the opportunity to try Hibiki 17 years old.  My uncle was given a bottle by his daughter-in-law.  She is Japanese and while in her native land picked up a bottle of Hibiki 17 years old as a gift for my uncle.  I got to try it! 

Blended Whisky
Hibiki 17 years is not a single malt.  Don't turn your nose up.  That would be a serious mistake.  Have an open mind and you will be rewarded.

This spirit is a blend of malt and grain whiskies having a minimum age of 17 years.  What is astounding about this whisky is that there is no graininess or rounded flavors that seem to 'blur' the flavors as is typical of high end Scotch whisky blends like Ballantine's 17 years, Chivas Regal 18 years, Johnnie Walker Gold and Blue Labels. 

Hibiki 17 can be proud of an extraordinary feat.  It tastes like a single malt scotch whisky, and a very, very fine one at that.

Nose
Cocoa and hazelnut.  It was quite restrained.  Not incredible but not offensive.  Just kinda there.  Very pleasant.

Palate
Rich, textured beams of cinammon, oak and honey lash the palate with lemon zest as you hold the whisky for a few seconds.  Medium to full bodied.  Never sharp.  Inifinitely smooth, yet playful and challenging.  A whisky that makes one unpoetically (is that a word?) wax on like a star-crossed lover.

Finish
Wow!  Super long!  You need such a little sip of this whisky to enjoy a subtle spiced oak/honey/cinammon combo wrapped in hazelnut with a little citrus on top. A flavor profile that will hold for a good 60 seconds after you swallow.  Wow!  I know, I know, I am getting repetitive, but this is really impressive.

General Impressions
I am breaking one of my cardinal rules of this blog.  Namely:  Thou shalt not review a whisky unless thou has tasted the whisky on multiple occasions.  In other words, own my own bottle, sample repeatedly, and then compose tasting notes.  I have broken that rule because this is a whisky that breaks all the rules!  (1)  It's a blended whisky but tastes like the finest single malt;  (2)  It's Japanese but could easily pass for 18+ years single malt Scotch.  (3)  It's terribly expensive but a tiny sip is so rich that in my warped mind I think it is worth the price!

I have tried many single malts and grain whiskies and this is simply one of the best.  I rank it in my top five of all time.  Fantastic stuff!

Rarely do I pay attention to the shape of a bottle, but the fine glass, Hibiki 17 24 sided bottle design is impressive.  The 24 sides allude to the number of hours in a day as well as the number of seasons in the traditional Japanese lunar calendar.  The heavy glass cap is elegant like the whisky underneath.

The trouble with Hibiki 17 is locating it, if you live in North America.  It is currently not being distributed in the United States or Canada.  I have a lot of readers in Hong Kong, Singapore, as well as Japan.  I suspect they can obtain it more easily.  For the rest of us, we gotta pray it turns up at duty free in the airport.

However, while the Hibiki 17 is not available in North America, the 12 year old is available and it is excellent.  If you see it, buy it!

I would buy this for myself and only share with people who appreciate great whisky.  If you can find it, buy it!

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved.

Suntory Single Malt Whisky "Yamazaki" 12 yr old

"For relaxing times . . .
make it Suntory times." This famous line comes from the quirky and highly entertaining film, Lost in Translation. Bill Murray portrays an American actor in Japan for the purpose of doing an advertisement for Suntory whisky. The film gave tremendous exposure for the Yamazaki whiskey to the rest of the world, particularly, North America. Suntory have always run a lot of whisky ads with film stars too like Sean Connery. If you go on "You Tube" and search Suntory Advertisements you can see them for your self. Really quite entertaining. Getting back to the movie line above, I can personally attest that Suntory's Yamazaki 12yr old makes for relaxing times!

Single malt whisky can be distilled outside of Scotland! As much as scotch afficionados think only Scotland can deliver the finest whisky in the world, there are contenders elsewhere within grasp of taking the title.

Japan is home to a great distillery, Yamazaki, owned by the Suntory conglomerate. Matter of fact, this distillery was the first single malt distillery outside of Scotland. It was founded in 1923 in the Vale of Yamazaki, on the outskirts of Kyoto. The site was selected for its access to fresh air, pure water and ideal humidity for aging whisky in casks.

The Japanese love their whisky and like most endeavours that they attempt, they succeed when it comes to producing a great single malt whiskey. It is the Yamazaki 12 year old. My tasting note is as follows:

Nose
The aromas are a little different from what I expected. At first a little strong waft of alcohol, but sniffed more carefully, I detect malt and cereal. The nose is not impressive. Hard to read and so I really had no idea what would unfold upon tasting.

Palate
This is medium bodied to heavy. It has a viscous texture releasing malt, chocolate, sweet spice and some peat. It starts out sweet but by the finish starts to dry across the palate. Incredibly smooth dram of honey and cinammon. Could easily pass for a 12 year old Speyside single malt in a blind tasting test.

Finish
Nice length of flavors. Lingering cinammon/burnt toast and faint echo of peat, black tea and mint.

General Impressions
I like this a lot. It is interesting and totally inoffensive. Tastes like scotch and if I was conducting a blind taste test, I am sure it would pass for a Speyside as I mentioned above. Sophisticated, silky and reasonably priced too. You buy this and can be assured that you are receiving value for money. I rank this better than other 12 year old single malts like Glenfiddich and Glenlivet, but not as complex as say Cragganmore 12.

This is a sweet whisky with drying qualities upon the finish. Dalwhinnie is a good reference point for comparisons with this whisky.

What you will not taste in the Yamazaki 12 yr old is: sherry, tobacco and peat beyond a little tease.

The Yamazaki 12 yr old has made a new fan! I hope you will give it a try sometime. You will not be disappointed.

Cheers!

© Jason Debly, 2009-2011. All rights reserved.