Whisky Review: The Spice Tree by Compass Box Co.

After many years of going to the gym, lifting weights, treadmill and even a few aerobics classes, I have burnt out.  I can't do the gym anymore to the point where I would pull into the parking lot with a feeling of dread and say 'screw it', and head back home.

Maybe it's age too.  I am not as energetic as I once was nor as ambitious about my health, career or anything for that matter.  But, I do know I have to keep doing something or all my ailments (diabetes, etc) will go into overdrive.  So, I have taken up walking mostly in parks and around my neighborhood.  Sometimes, I can cajole Roger or Keith to do an hour long walk, but other times I am on my own.

During today's walk I was pondering what nip of whisky would be fitting for combating the chilly weather following my leafy jaunt.  Couldn't be peaty.  I just was not in the mood for a lot of peat and smoke.  Sherry?  Port?  For sure!  A heavy mouthfeel, velvety, yeah.  My mind sifted through possibilities like Macallan 12, Glendronach, Balvenie, and then I thought those are expensive (well not Glendronach but the others are) and so I came upon another contender that excited me: The Spice Tree.

While it is not a single malt, it can hold its own against these more expensive age statement single malts.  The Spice Tree is a blended malt, a combination of Clynelish (60%), Teaninich (20%) and Dailuaine (20%) malts that make for a brilliant Scotch whisky.   Also an affordable spirit too!  I am worrying about my pocketbook, in addition to my health, as I get older too.  I am not yet watching Coronation Street, but who knows what my interests will be as a senior.

The other added bonus with The Spice Tree is that, unlike Balvenie, Macallan and others, here we have a non-chill filtered and no artificial color spirit, which I really think it contributes great complexity of flavour.  While it does not have an age statement, this whisky delivers a solid flavour with texture that tells me the master blender made sure to have just enough older malts in the mix.  This is no simple dram.  The other reason for the complexity is the ABV at 46%!

Category
Blended malt.

Price
Very reasonable.

Age Statement
None.

Closure
Cork stopper.

ABV
46%

Nose (diluted)
Earthy, sherry oak, Bordeaux wine, roses.

Palate (diluted)
Creamy, heavy English cream laden with red berries and spicy currants, warm cinnamon rolls, rich and velvety, vanilla, claret, truffles, a very dry Bordeaux.

Finish (diluted)
Drying cranberries, tangy, some wild honey mixing with the Bordeaux.



General Impressions
As you have probably figured out, this is really good whisky.  Good price, good ABV level, good everything!  Clynelish is the core malt here and you really taste it.  The sherry and the casks it came from is done to perfection here.

A word about water.  You will note that my tasting note is based on diluting the spirit with some water.  I really think to a double pour you need about a teaspoon of water.  This whisky improves with water and neat is not optimal.

My hour long walk is over and now I can enjoy this dram having finished this post.

Have a great day!




Jason Debly

Johnnie Walker Green Label - A Vatted Malt that Beats Many Single Malts!

On Saturday night, I was at a local hotel bar with some friends.  I surveyed the menu of scotches available and noticed Johnnie Walker Green Label 15 years.  It is a blend of only single malts having a minimum age of 15 years.  Often this type of scotch is referred to as a "vatted malt."  It had been more than a year since I last had it, and a lot of readers had been emailing me my impressions of it.  I was enthusiastic in my email replies urging them to buy this great spirit.  So, I thought it was in order for me to try this scotch again to make sure that nothing had changed.  It lived up to my memory of it, and in fact reminded me that I have to buy a few more bottles.

It's a lovely scotch that for some reason does not have the popularity enjoyed by other blends like it's younger brother Black Label.  Not sure why this is the case.  Here's a theory: 

Johnnie Walker Green Label is priced in the same vicinity as many 10 and 12 year old single malts.  The typical consumer heads into the liquor store and will want to maximize value for money in a purchase.  Operating on the assumption that single malts are always superior to blends, he or she selects the 10 or 12 year old single malt over the vatted malt or pure malt scotch whisky, Johnnie Walker Green.  Accordingly, sales of this vatted malt are weaker than say Black Label that has no such single malt equivalent competition. 

There is some anecdotal support for my theory.  The liquor corporation that owns all liquor stores in my area has chosen to 'delist' (government speak for a halt on future orders) as they too believe customers are opting for the 10 and 12 year old single malts in the same price range.  Accordingly, I have started hoarding the remaining bottles available in my area . . .

 











So, who buys Johnnie Walker Green?  People who have stumbled upon it by accident or those who wondered what the other Johnnie Walker bottlings taste like.  That's how I discovered it.  Of course, there is also the category of customers who know Johnnie Walker Green to be better than many of the single malts at the same price point.  I think the company, Diageo, should consider increasing marketing of this wonderful product and maybe tackle head-on the assumption that 10 and 12 year old single malts are better.  Such a premise is often not true.  As you know, just because a scotch is a single malt does not necessarily mean it is better than a blended scotch, particularly this vatted malt.

Glenfiddich 12 years, Glenkinchie 12 years, Glenlivet 12 years, Auchentoshan 12 years and Glendronach  12 years are clear examples of single malts that pale in comparison to Johnnie Walker Green Label.  Green Label offers a nicer nose, and a greater complexity of flavors.  Just add a little water (ie. one teaspoon) to a shot to bring out the complexity of flavors.

Frankly, I think Green Label is better than Blue Label.

Diageo, if you are out there and reading this post, take note, this is one consumer that wants to see this brand marketed more heavily to ensure its continued existence.  My great fear is that one day Diageo may stop making this great vatted malt.  A marketing campaign with a logo like "Green Label - A Vatted Malt that Beats Single Malts!" or something to that affect would be great and effective in increasing sales and thereby enabling me to continue to enjoy this wonderful spirit.

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved.

P.S.  Diageo totally ignored my suggestion in this post and instead have discontinued this diamond of a malt.  I discuss this terrible development here.