Whiskey Review: Bushmills Black Bush Irish Whiskey

Category
Irish Whiskey

Age Statement
None, but estimated to be 7 - 10 years old malt whiskies.

ABV
40%

Production Note
Triple distilled, aged in a combination of ex-sherry and bourbon casks.

Price
Very affordable.  Good value for money!

Nose
Oak, sherry, cooked apples.

Palate
Smooth entry of sweet chocolate mousse, dark raisins followed by a light spiciness.  Warm fruitcake.

Finish
Long.  Lingering malt notes, blackberry, cherrywood, cocoa, salted dark chocolate.

General Impressions 
More sherried than bourbon cask influenced.  Balanced with no graininess.  Highly recommended!

Whisky Review: Bushmills Original Whiskey

Whisky Review: Bushmills 10 years Single Malt

Review: Green Spot Irish Whiskey

Wife:  "You never told me how you want to end up?"  She is cradling a book in her lap.  Probably sitting atop the Man Booker Prize list.  She is very smart.  Me, not so much.  I am cradling my Sony TV remote.

Me:  "What?"

Wife:  "You know, do you want to be cremated?"

Me:  "What?  Hell no!"

Wife:  "I want to be," she cheerily declares.  She picks a microscopic speck of dust off her sweater sleeve.  "So, tell me about your funeral.  How do you want it to be?"

Me: (I am thinking, why does she have to start these types of conversations when a really good football game is on.  It's a sunny Sunday afternoon, I am collapsed on the couch, the kids are at someone else's house for once.  I mean the Cowboys might beat Seattle and she is asking me about my funeral wishes?  Really?  WTF??  'Do not start a fight Jason, play along,' I say to myself repeatedly like some updated Buddhist mantra that is chanted by husbands the world over. So, I sigh deeply followed by a pregnant pause, worthy of off-Broadway, and reply with near honesty)

"Well, honey, I'd like music to play at the wake.  I am thinking to start things off with a Dorothy Love Coates gospel number I'll Be With Thee excellently covered by Jerry Garcia.  While that is playing, I want my coffin to roll up in a hearse that is modeled off the 1971 Cadillac Eldorado from Superfly.

I want the music to fade from Jerry's gospel cover to Isaac Hayes' Shaft.  The funeral director will have to crank the music so that the wah-wah guitar is killer, but then he must carefully dial it down before Isaac sings because I think his lyrics really just glorify the outrageously transient wealth and flashiness of soulless ghetto criminals.  So, before Isaac would sing I want the music to drift into Pusherman by Curtis Mayfield.  That brother had a moral compass.  His music didn't romanticize Ghetto drug dealers who destroyed large swathes of their community."

Wife:  She stares at me blankly and whispers . . . "Whisky, what about whisky?"

Me:  "Oh yeah, you can serve Green Spot.  It's an Irish whiskey.  Very good.  Its expensive but I'll put aside some money for it.  The kids may have to miss one college semester, but hey I made sacrifices too.  If they whine about it, just tell 'em Papa Was a Rolling Stone.

Irish whiskey is somehow more fitting for a wake than Scotch whisky.  I am not a fan of the bottom shelf Jameson dear, so I'm going to pay a little extra and educate my well-wishers, from my afterlife, about the magic of Irish whiskey and that would be Green Spot."

Nose (undiluted)
Oranges, slices of green apple, ginger.

Palate (undiluted)
Spiced apple and pears, sesame brittle, sherry, melon and classic Irish whiskey oiliness with a nutty hint.  Herbaceous and complex!

Finish (undiluted)
Clean lemons, honey and more orient spices.

Me:  "Oh yeah, and you can play my video review of Greenspot on a giant screen."



Wife:  "Honey, you just lay there and rest.  I think I will get dinner ready."

Me: (Mission accomplished!  Now back to the game!)

Cheers!


Jason Debly

P.S.  Green Spot is an excellent Irish whiskey that rivals if not surpasses other great compatriots like Redbreast.  It is expensive but worth the price.

By the way, Superfly is an excellent film that you should check out.  Shot without a permit, it shows a gritty 1971 NYC with humor, seriousness, but no moralizing.   Internet Movie Data Base member, thomaswatchesfilms writes:

"This gritty, low budget film offers a unique and honest perspective on the underworld of black street life in the early 1970s, with an almost tragic, Shakepearian, bent. The look, the feel and language of the culture and the almost real-time look street life in NYC of that era is truly unmatched by any film before or since. Perhaps through genius, inspiration, maybe just plain luck, or all three, the producers and director hit the nail right on the head. Starring an excellent, intelligent cast of professional thespians, some with impressive stage and film credentials, and augmented by a wonderful infusion of genuine non-professionals right from the street in key roles, the film has an honesty and gritty reality that belies its budgetary constraints. Filmed largely without the permission of local authorities and unions, in winter and often after dark, it has a cinema verite feel throughout; almost a documentary. And the score! Composed and performed by Curtis Mayfield, it is as close to an utter classic as has ever been offered. It stands alone, and would have been a multi-platinum offering even without the film. If one takes the inherent flaws to this type of production; i.e. the rough editing, slightly uneven performances and almost clandestine feel, and places these in proper perspective, it is sure to delight all but the most hardened and jaded enthusiasts of film. Notable: this film set THE STYLE for black, urban culture for most of the next decade. It has no current rivals in that accomplishment. After this film, simply everything since has been empty posturing vis-a-vis popular rap music. It was "remade" during the mid 1990s and set in Miami as "Big Ballers", which was utterly horrible. Compare the two and you will see what style counts for. This film is the real deal. I spent money I didn't have to get this DVD. Go buy it, trust me."

Review: Jameson 18 year old “Master Selection” Irish Whiskey

Buying a bottle of whisky can be a lot like a first date. 

You're on your best behaviour.  Smiling, anticipating a good time, taking space out of your weekend to connect.  (You've got your clean crystal tumbler, Glencairn whisky glass or whatever out.  You pour a little, unsure but hopeful.)

She looks good too.  Maybe even grant you a sly smile, listen intently as you talk.  It's genuine.  You're both connecting.  (You sip and are pleased.)

Maybe a little dancing?  After all, you are really hitting it off.

You, of course, look like a total dufus, but hey everyone is having fun and no one is getting hurt. (The whisky tastes great!)

Maybe this can continue to a second date who knows?

Pulp Fiction was a great film released in 1994.  What I thought was probably some of the best acting and directing in cinema was that first date between Uma Thurman's character (Mia Wallace) and the character (Vince Vega) portrayed by John Travolta.  There was fantastic chemistry between the two.  The nervous conversation in the diner, stark and awkward at first, but gradually warming up.  Very tough to pull off a great depiction of romance in film.  It's easier to have action and suspense, but to convincingly portray romance, I think, is a lot more difficult.  Same with whisky.

My latest purchase was a bottle of Jameson "Master Selection" 18 year old Irish Whiskey (bottle no. JJ18-7).  The bottle was produced in 2008 and the labeling has since changed.  Jameson now labels their 18 year old offering as 'Limited Reserve.'  A week ago, I opened this bottle and my initial impressions were ones of enchantment.  Below is my original tasting note:

Nose (undiluted)
Subtle flower bouquet, lemongrass, malty and grandmother’s white bread just out of the oven.

Palate (undiluted)
Powerful. Sweet, mouth watering entry of dignified sherry in a malty embrace.  Rich oak. There is exotic cherry like fruit. Pomegranate emerges and takes centre stage.

Finish (undiluted)
Dries a little leaving finest Chinese green tea, lemongrass and limes.

I thought this was pretty good whiskey.  Maybe not the greatest of all time, but a good first date.  I was writing a bit like a highschool kid with a bad case of puppy love.  Here were my general impressions:

"Sherry is an integral part of the flavor profile, but take note, it is not a sherry bomb.  It is a flavor component that holds all other celestial objects in an orbit around it.  As I said in my review of Jameson 12 year old, the distiller could have resorted to making this whisky spicy in order deliver a complex flavor profile.   Again he has not resorted to such a trite shortcut.  Instead, Jameson’s Master Blender has melded flavors together in an uniquely Irish whiskey fashion.  It truly is a blend in the purest sense of the word.  You taste a limited rainbow of lemongrass, green tea, Oloroso sherry, pomegranate and limes.  Very mellow." 

Subsequent dates/tastings have not lived up to that original tasting note or first impressions.  You see things kinda went down hill once that bottle was opened.  Some whiskies never change from the first sip through to the last drop.  Others, once they come in contact with air can change as sharply as a lane change by a student driver. 
After repeated tastings, I revised my glowing tasting note to something much less enthusiastic.

Nose (undiluted)
Damp leaves, earth, weak sherry.

Palate (undiluted)
Silky sweet and rounded, medium bodied.  Sugar, lemon bread that is slightly under cooked.  No clarity of flavors, they are altogether as blended whiskey typically is.  Simple taste.  Kinda like gumdrops dusted with granulated sugar poured into a glass.  By the way, no value for money here.  Jameson 12 is better at half the price. 

Finish (undiluted)
Never dries much upon the palate.  Just a little.  Black ground pepper hangs, but not to the point of what one would call spicy.  And then there is a lime, mint, wine gum flavors that treads so close to the edge that it crosses the line into the lane that tastes of alcohol with lemongrass.  What a let down.  The final note is very close to plain alcohol.  The flavor profile flirts with the raw taste of alcohol, coming close then backing up to wine gums.  Just a mediocre finish for a very expensive whiskey.

It's not the worst finish in the history of whisky, that prize would go to Whyte & Mackay or Ballantine's Finest.  Nevertheless, a huge disappointment (for an expensive 18yr old Irish whiskey) along the lines of Mia overdosing on a baggie of Vince Vega's heroin she found in his overcoat.  Not cool, not a cool way at all to conclude a date that, at one point, held so much promise.

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Photo Credits and copyright holders:  Still images from the 1994 film Pulp Fiction, Miramax Films.  Gumdrop photo by Stevehdc entitled: "Glowing Gumdrops."  Photos of Jameson 18 bottle - Jason Debly.

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2010. All rights reserved except for images credited to others.

Review: Jameson Irish Whiskey

Nose (undiluted)
Unpleasant waft of alcohol, oak, damp leaves, earthen root cellar.

Palate (undiluted)
Cloyingly sweet honey entry upon the palate. Super smooth. Malty, cereal (dry Cheerios), cloves, limes and ginger (surprising citrus elements). Not spicy.  Actually, very little spice.  No burn.  Just some warmth (more about that later).

Finish (undiluted)
Short, ginger, black olives and a distinct Irish maltiness.

General Impressions
No peat. This is no surprise. Irish whiskey is generally devoid of peat. There are a few exceptions, but I will save that for another post. No smoke in Jameson either. What I take away from drinking this is lots of sweet, smooth honey, a boozey viscous texture, oak and some short ginger. Not sophisticated. Simple, good for mixing in coffee or cocktail.  Drink it neat and there is a boozey warmth that will envelope you kinda like peeing your pants.

Peer Group
Jameson is apparently the best selling Irish whiskey in the United States.  I think that factoid is more of a testament to American frugality than anything else.  Jameson is the poorest tasting, no age statement, Irish whiskey that is widely available.  I would take the standard bottling of Bushmills (white label) and Powers Gold Label any day over this tot. 

Say Something Good!
What did my Mother always say?  If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all.  Hmmm . . . I seem to violate that precept daily.  Anyhow, let's try and be nice: (1) Jameson is cheap;  (2) smooth;  (3) no bite;  (4)gives you a glow like the back end of an old picture tube television;  (5) sweet like sugar donuts;  (6) you wanna know what a frat boy drunk is all about.

Thumbs Down
Pass on this.  It's cheap, sweet and a little too oaky. . .  Sorry Mom, I'll try to be nicer next time.

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved, except for image of actor Joaquin Phoenix of the film Gladiator (2000 Dreamworks USA), and image of Jameson bottle, product shot by Jameson (Pernod Ricard).  Close up photograph of Jameson bottle taken by Flickr.com member Pleasence who has graciously placed this photograph in the public domain for reproduction.  All images appearing in this article are for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment. Moreover, all images used are considered by the author to be significant in illustrating the subject matter, facilitating artistic/critical commentary, as it provides an immediate relevance to the reader more capably than the textual description.

Review: Auchentoshan 12 year old - Single Malt Scotch Review

I had this a couple of weeks ago at a whisky tasting.  It was the second one up.  The first dram was from the Glen Scotia distillery and was unremarkable.  The Auchentoshan was very malty and even had some complexity I thought.  So, I made a mental note to buy a bottle and review it.

I bought a bottle even though a friend of mine, James, had mentioned that the Auchentoshan 10 year old was one of the worst single malts he has ever had the misfortune of tasting. 

Price Point
I paid $54 for a bottle.  Very reasonable in my part of the world for a 12 year old single malt.

Nose (undiluted)
A little smoke, very malty, faint pine needles.

Palate (undiluted)
Ridiculously smooth.  Definitely malty.  Cloves, sweet cinnamon sticks and the slightest taste of spices.

Finish (undiluted)
Oak.  Very subdued zing of ground pepper and quite grainy.  How a single malt can be grainy on the finish is beyond me.  Especially odd when you consider grain alcohol does not make up a single malt.

Add Water?
I did.  The results were not an improvement.  It became slighlty bitter.

General Impressions
Not impressed.  I feel like I wasted some money on this scotch.  I expected something more.  It did not live up to my recollection of the scotch tasting.  When I buy a single malt, I expect flavors that are superior to blended scotch in the same price range.  Not true in this case.  I'd take Chivas Regal 12 year old over this any day of the week.

It is not a horrible whisky, just sweet, malty, flat and boring.  There is nothing to this one.  It is an ingredient single malt in Ballantines Finest, and quite frankly, I would also drink the latter over this.

When I compare this 12 year old single malt to other 12 year old single malts, the disappointment deepens.  Highland Park 12, Cragganmore and others are light years ahead of Auchentoshan 12.

Who should buy this? 
If you have never tried a single malt scotch, I could understand trying this as a novice scotch fan and enjoying it.  Why?  Because of the smooth texture, the complete lack of any offensive flavors, virtually no peat flavor (novices rarely enjoy big peat flavors) and just a little spice and smoke on the finish to let you know that you are drinking scotch and not cherry Coke.

Auchentoshan scotch regardless of the particular bottling, is triple-distilled like many Irish whiskies.  The result is a very smooth scotch.  If you prefer Irish whisky over scotch, this may be one you will enjoy.  It shares many common characteristics with Irish whisky like Bushmills.

Auchentoshan 12 year old (which replaced the old 10 year old bottling) is not terrible.  It has no 'bite' or 'roughness' but no memorable flavors.  Again, this is one for someone new to scotch or for the ladies.  Guys, if you are caught sipping this, I and others are gonna wonder where your purse is.

For me, I detected little complexity of flavor whatsoever.  For unabashed scotch fans, who like some intrigue and challenge, skip this Plain Jane and continue your search for a Jayne Mansfield. 

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved.

Redbreast 12 year old

Nose
Upon opening (for the very first time) the bottle and pouring a dram, there was an initial strong alcohol scent, which quickly changed to lemon citrus with some malty undertones. These aromas are nothing special. However, if you let the whiskey breathe in a tumbler for a few minutes, the aromas rising up become much maltier and therefore quite pleasant. The initial unpleasant alcohol scents never return once you have opened the bottle.

Nose of dandelion flower, wet grass, early morning cool misty air against a malty background frame the aromas.

Palate (undiluted)
Initially, sweet ginger and thick honey dance upon the palate. Cinnamon and sherry emerge mid-palate.

Finish (undiluted)
Crunch of dark toast moving to spicy hot cinnamon, then sherry and finally the distinct taste of bruised Japanese tangerine on the finish. There is an interplay between spoilt sherry and spicy ginger and the former wins out in the end.

Palate (diluted)
Add one teaspoon of water and this whiskey reveals its complexity of flavor. It tastes more honeyed rather than the concentrated cinnamon and sherry revealed when sampled neat. Besides the honey being brought to the foreground, there appears rich cinnamon and ginger weaving a pleasing tapestry upon the palate. What I enjoy about the addition of water is that it subdues the sherry considerably. Drank neat, the sherry is out of balance, too dominant. The water beautifully remedies that imbalance. Besides the cinnamon, the other flavors of honey and ginger emerge as if drizzled on the dark toast I noted when drammed neat. Big, round flavors of maple syrup drizzled Belgian waffles participate at mid-palate.

The addition of water does not ruin the drink by any means. Some whiskies benefit enormously from the addition of water, while others do not. Redbreast 12 yr falls into the former category.

Finish (diluted)
Spiced butterscotch, toffee and the faintest of ocean spray emerges on the finish.

General Impressions
In a blind taste test, this Irish whiskey, if diluted with a teaspoon of water to a shot, could pass for a Speyside single malt scotch. It has all the classic flavors of honey, cinnamon, toffee and butterscotch without any peat. I am going out on a limb here, but I find considerable similarities (if diluted) with Cragganmore 12yr old.

Big bodied, round flavors of malt, cinnamon, and burnt toast. Consumed neat, this whisky has some complexity of flavors, but not on par with great Speyside single malt scotches. No grainy flavor, nasty bite or burn here. Just lots of rich chocolate, thick, spiced honey and cinnamon flavors bouncing off each other. Needs water to bring out the complexity of the aforementioned flavors.

It’s good but not great if enjoyed neat. The sherry has an alcohol imprint and the spoiled taste of bruised tangerines, ever so slight on the finish, cheapens an otherwise good Irish whiskey.

I would buy this if I could not locate Cragganmore 12. If I am in the mood for an Irish whiskey, I would probably pass on this and go for Bushmills Black Bush. To my palate, it is so similar to Speyside scotch that I would rather buy the real thing. That being said, this is a fine whiskey that would make an acceptable gift or serving to your whiskey loving friends.

The online reviews for this whiskey are almost universally positive, but I cannot give it an automatic thumbs-up. The sherry and bruised tangerine flavors result in a finish that also has a distinct alcohol flavor that unpleasantly cheapens the flavor profile. For that reason, I am put off by this Irish whiskey. It’s good but not what I would call "great" to borrow from 'Tony the Tiger' of childhood cereal advertising (Frosted Flakes). I am in a minority opinion on this point, but hey I call it how I taste it. I am fairly sure I would not buy this again because I keep thinking this is a lot like Cragganmore 12 yr old, and why buy the imitator when you can have the real thing!

Cheers!

P.S. I have been drinking this over the past few weeks and like it less and less. The off sherry and tangerine notes I mention above are ever-present. Not liking this very much and definitely would not buy again. This is one to pass on, especially in light of the moderately high price.

Update April 2010:  The above review was for a 2007-2008 bottling that did have problems with off notes.  Apparently this issue has been resolved and it is much better.  If those off notes are not in it now, it is a very good Irish whiskey to buy.  Trouble is, I have not been able to pick it up where I live.


Jason Debly

© Jason Debly, 2009 - 2011. All rights reserved.

Bushmills Black Bush

Bushmills Black Bush
I’ve always felt that Irish whisky never quite gets the respect it so richly deserves. What I mean is that people who go to the local liquor store in search of a whisky as a gift often reach for scotch, much like people who know little about wine automatically reach for French wine. Just as there are many great wines produced outside of France, the same can be said of great whisky being found outside of Scotland. Ireland is a case in point.

Bushmills Black Bush is one of a number of whiskies produced by the distiller, Old Bushmills Distillery, located in the village of Bushmills, in the county of Antrim, Northern Ireland. The claim to fame of this distillery is its age. It was founded in 1784 and needless to say with such a long history, they have perfected the production of fine whisky.

Irish Whisky versus Scotch
In general, the most obvious difference between Irish whisky and scotch is the lack of peat and smoke in the former. This is due to the lack of peat during the distillation process. There is an exception of course to this generalization, Connemara Peated Irish Malt has peat and smoke flavors.

Composition
Black Bush is made up primarily of single malts and the remainder with grain whiskies. The majority of single malts used in this blended whisky results in a rich dram with big rounded flavors of chocolate and malt that is memorable, but subdued at the same time.

No age is stated, but I am convinced that the whiskies making up this spirit are in the vicinity of ten years. There is a real depth of character to this whisky. While it is aged in former Oloroso sherry casks, it is not what I would characterize as a sherried whisky. A small percentage of grain whisky is blended to give it a sweet character. This is a sweet whisky but not overly so.

Serving Suggestion
This is too fine to use in a mixed drink. This is deserving of being consumed neat or with a little water or ice. This tasting note was based on a neat serving.

Nose (undiluted)
Restrained. No over-the-top aromas wafting up. Instead, nosing this whisky will result in the enjoyment of delicate, soft notes of malt, warm fruitcake and molten chocolate.

Palate (undiluted)
Smooth, sweet chocolate mousse introduction followed by a nuttiness, think of cashews and brazil nuts. Next comes some spiciness, but not to the point of being peppery. The spiciness rests upon a malty background mixed with some dark fruitcake. Really intriguing. This is medium bodied.

Finish (undiluted)
Medium to short finish. Chocolate mousse again, oak and soft spices combine to be gentle and never offensive. No bite on the palate. Nice, but relatively short lingering warmth of spice box upon the palate rounds out this taste experience.

Final Thoughts
Rich, mildly sophisticated, but not so special that you cannot properly enjoy it in the presence of friends in a pub. Put another away, you can drink this casually and marvel at its smooth yet gentle spices, without thinking I am wasting my money by not paying more attention to it. This is not Royal Salute, Johnnie Walker Blue or Ballantines 17, all of which cannot be tossed back casually in a pub, unless you are a billionaire. The very reasonable price of Bushmills Black Bush makes it accessible.

Black Bush is not very complex. The flavors are pretty obvious: chocolate, malt, hazelnut and caramel. For this reason, I cannot descibe this whisky as overly sophisticated. The flavor profile is not as simple as the Bushmills White Label, but not too great a departure either.

In conclusion, this is a great blended whisky that every whisky/scotch drinker should try. It's easy going, not offensive and great for social occasions. I would give this as a gift to the casual whisky drinker. If I was buying a gift for the serious whisky fan, I would not choose Bushmills Black Bush because the flavors roll out in a very simplistic fashion.

Cheers!

© Jason Debly, 2009-2012. All rights reserved.

Bushmills Original - Irish Whisky

Irish whisky can be distinguished from scotch due to the total absence of peat flavours. And for that reason, Irish whisky is always a nice diversion from scotch (Scottish whisky).

I first read about Bushmills in old adventure novels written by Jack Higgins, the author of "The Eagle Has Landed." Invariably, his novels had an Irish character whose choice drink was Bushmills. So, it has always been on my "list" (not a written one, but rather one occupying part of a scarce brain cell) to try. This year I stumbled upon it in the nearby liquor store and soon it found a new home in mine.

Suggested Serving
There are a number of ways to try this. First, by itself or "neat" as those trendy people dress in black turtlenecks in coffee shops would say. A drop or two of distilled water added can bring out some interesting flavours. Finally, an ice cube works too.

Nose
Hot chocolate.

Palate
A nutty flavour chased by maple syrup flavoured porridge, which plateaus into lightly sugared short bread cookie.

Finish
A little zing of dark chocolate and malt (think "cereal") that lingers ever so briefly.

Impressions
I like this and I can't imagine how anyone would not on some level. It is not strong, burning or medicinal like inexpensive whisky can be. The body is light, not complex, but nevertheless, enjoyable. This whisky is triple distilled which produces a very smooth dram. I keep thinking about the nutty flavour. This is great to serve after a heavy meal for those dinner guests who want to sip something pleasant but different. A great gift that will surprise the casual scotch/whisky or bourbon drinker.

If I were to voice a common criticism of this blended whisky, it would be the rather simple flavor profile. Not a lot of complex flavors going on here. This particular Bushmills offering is the "White Label" which is their most basic, entry level offering. Accordingly, it has mass appeal and offends no one. Great as an ingredient in mixed drinks or for the novice scotch/whisky drinker looking to put his/her toe in the great pond of the spirits universe. Finally, I just got this gut feeling that this is one the ladies would like too.

Cheers!

P.S.  I prefer Bushmills White label to Jameson's standard bottling any day.

© Jason Debly, 2009-2011. All rights reserved.