Most people know I am an eccentric with a wide variety of eclectic interests and fixations, none of which are lucrative. Life coaches say: make millions following your passion in life! If I did that I would have a closet full of Saville Row bespoke clothes, every New Yorker magazine cover framed, all coffee table books devoted to Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater, and a bank account far in the red.
Like the eyes of a cat fixed upon a bird chirping in a tree, my focus is often upon the weighty matter of good whisky. And so, at whisky festivals, line-ups at the bank, grocery stores, and anywhere else I happen to be, the most common question I get is:
What scotch do you recommend?
Without knowing anything about the person, other than the fact that they have no inkling of what they like, I respond authoritatively with the zeal of a megawatt smiling YouTube life coach:
Cragganmore 12 year old. Try it. If you don't like it, I will buy the bottle from you.
Money back guarantee always seals the deal! And you know what? I have never had to buy a bottle yet. You see, Cragganmore 12 is what I regard as the gateway drug of the single malt world. This Speyside malt with loads of honey, caramel, marzipan, the incredible lightness of clouds with a touch of smoke and a wee pinch of peat delivers satisfaction and that Day Tripper hook, that reels you back for one more sip. Works every time! So, when I spied the Cragganmore Distiller's Edition on the shelf at the store of my local purveyor of incredible lightness of being, I had to have it.
Now, I need to have a word with you about distiller's editions. When these are released it is usually a new twist upon the standard malt offering of the distillery. Often I have thought some distiller's editions are distiller's disappointment. The higher priced DE fails to impress and often just falls flat. The ABV is not even higher and chill filtration is still going on. So, what am I paying extra for? A different label and slightly different casks used?
So, I also had some trepidation when I purchased the Cragganmore Distiller's Edition (distilled in 2007 and bottled in 2019).
Cragganmore 'The Distiller's Edition'
Distilled in 2007.
Bottled in 2019.
Closure
Cork Stopper.
ABV
40%
Chill Filtration?
Yes.
Artificial Color?
Yes.
Wood Management
Here is the twist, what you are paying for: aging in port casks for an unknown period of time. I like port finishes, so here's hopin'.
Price
About 25% higher than the standard 12 year old release.
Nose (undiluted)
Fruit forward, raspberries, strawberries, very floral too, roses?
Palate (undiluted)
Spicy, rich red liquorice, velvety texture, full mouth feel, big body, weighty, black grapes, orange peel and a complex tapestry of caramel and maple sugar.
Finish (undiluted)
Medium length balsamic vinegar, pears, port wine, and a dusting of smoked almonds.
General Impressions
Wow! In spite of an ABV of 40%, this tastes heavier and more complex. Complexity abounds in the warm almond/cashew and maple sugar profile with a little smoke. Not too sweet. Such balance. I am really impressed. So impressed, I bought a second bottle.
I always seem to gravitate to whiskies with a port finish and this whisky is no exception. It is less heavy on the port notes than say Glenmorangie's Quinta Ruban, and instead offers a delicate/more complex port finish.
This bottle is a testament to how chill filtration and the use of distiller's caramel do not diminish the magic in a bottle.
Empty are the elm tree lined streets of Fredericton where the only sound is the wind, at times, shrill like a wartime London air raid siren. Unlit storefronts, empty mud parking lots, deserted Victorian houses converted into government offices, and a silent Saturday morning market is all that remains of this once bustling college town.
These March gusts portended an enemy invasion of my hometown: COVID-19. This infectious interloper arrived one, otherwise, ordinary day. Even here in this tiny township, the coronavirus has breached our defences and attacked two people on the university campus, where red brick Georgian architecture took hold and never let go.
I still have a job, still get paid, but I know so many people around me who have no money coming in because their job is gone, as one business after another is shut down by the insidious onslaught of this horribly virulent intruder. Everyone needs a job and has financial obligations to meet. I really feel for the unemployed, and if this goes on too long, I may be joining their ranks. These are times of fear and economic devastation not seen since the Great Depression. I now understand my great uncle Arthur's distrust of banks, his avoidance of debt of any kind and paying for everything in cash. The Great Depression scarred him forever.
We all know the real threat of COVID-19 is more than just economic, it threatens our lives. It's all to easy to slide into a state of fear and paranoia that brings out the worst in all of us like hoarding and snitching on neighbours. We may lose our jobs, money and endure calamitous financial hardships, but more important is our health and protecting the lives of loved ones, yours and mine. We must be vigilant in maintaining social isolation from others, washing our hands and all the health recommendations from our government's public health branch.
British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, May 13th, 1940.
But, most of all, we must remember that we will get through this. There will be better days ahead. In this time, I often think about Winston Churchill during WWII and his absolute refusal to surrender to his own fears, but insisted that the heinous pestilence Hitler represented would be defeated. In WWII there were no winners in terms of human suffering. All civilian populations of Europe suffered horribly, whether they be German, French, British or whoever. London was bombed with terrible consequences, but so too were the Germans (e.g. Dresden '45), the Japanese (e.g. Hiroshima & Nagasaki, 1945), and everyone else held in the cruel grip of war. But, all those nations rebuilt and while many died, many survived and lived to see another day.
On May 13th, 1940, Winston Churchill addressed the wartime House of Commons of the Parliament of the United Kingdom:
"We have before us an ordeal of the most grievous kind. We have before us many, many long months of struggle and of suffering. You ask, what is our policy? I will say: It is to wage war, by sea, land, and air, with all our might and with all the strength that God can give us; to wage war against a monstrous tyranny never surpassed in the dark, lamentable catalogue of human crime. That is our policy. You ask, what is our aim? I can answer in one word: It is victory, victory at all costs, victory in spite of all terror, victory, however long and hard the road may be."
You and I also have to wage war against COVID-19 by sea, land and air. Do your best and remember Churchill persevered because he would never surrender. You and I must do the same!
Lately, I have been sampling quite a few single malts from independent bottlers. Why? The answer is simple. They offer an opportunity to try single malts from obscure distilleries that often end up in famous blended Scotch whiskies. The range of flavour profiles is astounding and the chances of discovering a diamond in the rough for a fraction of the price of a similar quality malt released by the big multinational drinks companies is pretty good too!
Independent bottlers just seem to be hitting it out of the ballpark for me as of late. Because they typically do not own a distillery, they buy the new make spirit that is excess or unwanted by distilleries. Sometimes these spirits have a flaw or are a bit off in terms of the house style of a distillery and so they find a home with the independent bottler. These bottlers are generally old firms that have a huge inventory of casks in all shapes and sizes, and experienced staff who sample the spirit regularly till its deemed ready to bottle. Expert wood management coupled with the right amount of aging and good judgment can transform an otherwise mediocre spirit into a thing of beauty.
What I have before me is a bottle from the independent bottler Gordon & MacPhail. While they do own a distillery (Benromach), the bottle before me is not from there. They have purchased some spirit from a little known distillery, Miltonduff. Miltonduff is a Speyside distillery that has been in operation since the early 19th century. Today, it produces about 4 million litres a year and most of the production is destined for eventual inclusion as the malt whisky component of the well-known, blended Scotch, Ballantine's Finest, which by the way, I absolutely despise. Ballantine's flavor profile can be summarized as Alpenweiss box wine, Fresca and black pepper, suitable as windshield washer fluid only. If I had known this tidbit of how Miltonduff is used, I probably would not have picked up this G&M release. But, such is fate. Sometimes we make decisions (career, marriage, purchase a Mercedes, etc.) without being fully informed.
Gordon & MacPhail have several different 'ranges' of releases. Some expensive and rare and others not. I opt for the latter. The Miltonduff 10 year old is from the Discovery range. The aim of this range is to serve as an introduction to the portfolio of classic Scotch flavor profiles: 'sherry', 'smoky' and 'bourbon.' Our little ol' bottle of Miltonduff is the 'sherry' representative. I am surprised as Ballantine's Finest is not a sherried dram. But, then I remember in such a blend Miltonduff is one of a great many single malts, and who knows the proportion of malt. Miltonduff might be only added in relatively small amounts to the blend in comparison with other single malts.
Age Statement
10 years.
Price (in Canada)
$110 (so, not exactly cheap)
Format
700ml.
Closure
Cork stopper.
Color?
Natural! No E150a.
Chill-filtration?
Yes. I confirmed this with Mr. Bill Somerville, Brand Ambassador for Gordon & MacPhail in Canada.
ABV
43%
Nose (undiluted)
Distinct sherry, cracked leather, vanilla, summer flowers of roses and peonies.
Palate (undiluted)
A dry, rich, sherry bomb, exotic milk chocolate, hint of mint and spices, fruitcake, rum cake, raisins and toffee.
Finish (undiluted)
Medium length of chocolate, waxen raspberry, melted caramel, dry oak, black grapes.
General Impressions
This is good! The price is not cheap, but I have absolutely no buyer's remorse.
This bottle exhibits impressive complexity when you first open the bottle. However, once the bottle has been open a while, the oxidation makes it more sherried and less complex. Still a good dram for sure, just not as complex.
While the youngest whisky in the bottle is a mere ten years, it certainly seems to have others that are far older. Gordon & MacPhail have accomplished what they set out to do, namely present a classic sherried Speysider. Frankly, I prefer this release to its peers: Glenfarclas 12 and GlenDronach. It might be a little less refined than say Macallan 12, but I really need to do a side-by-side to decide. If you like sherry bombs with interesting nuances, you will love Miltonduff 10 years. Highly recommended!
Hepburn's Choice is a line of single malt releases put out by the independent Scotch whisky bottler Hunter Laing. This product line always features 46% ABV, non-chill filtered, and natural color. Even more interesting is that the bottles are poured from a single cask. The bottle I have is one of 420 poured from a single cask. And the best tidbit, I save for last: the price is not bad. Quite reasonable actually for a single malt with the aforementioned attributes.
Earlier this year, I picked up another in this series, namely a 10 year old Linkwood, which was truly amazing. I went back to the liquor store and bought up the remaining four bottles. I reviewed it on YouTube, but never got around to posting it on here. That was a spellbinding, quintessential Speysider. Well worth seeking out, if you can find it.
Distillery
The Teaninich Distillery was established in 1817. Currently owned by Diageo and the massive quantity of malt produced (10 million litres annually) is mostly used as an ingredient of Johnnie Walker Red Label.
Region
The distillery is located in the Highland region of Scotland.
Category
Single Malt.
Independent Bottler Hunter Laing have bought up some of the new make spirit of the Teaninich distillery and supplied the casks the spirit is aged in.
Age Statement
9 years (distilled in 2008 - bottled in 2017).
Finish (undiluted)
Sour white grape/wine gums. Lemon meringue pie, limes and a grapefruit pith bitterness.
General Impressions
This is a light whisky that showcases bitter and sweet white wines/grapefruit pith. It's a different type of malt. The grapefruit pith bitter notes mostly on the finish may put some people off, but I kinda like it. When I first opened the bottle, I was not impressed with that bitter finish, but the oxidation that transpired over a couple of weeks took that bitterness down sufficiently such that you can really enjoy it.
While it is 46% ABV, I wouldn't add water. Works nicely neat. The lack of chill filtration and artificial color contributes to the complexity of this malt.
Again, the price point is really reasonable for this malt and this factor makes it worth trying. If you are looking for something different and wondering what some of the ingredient malts of Johnnie Walker Red taste like, try Hepburn's Choice 'Teaninich 9 years.
Rick, seated at a table next to the piano, grunted something unintelligible, and stabbed a finger at the iPad that lit up at his touch. “Why me? Sam? Why?,” Rick asked.
Sam glanced at the iPad. It displayed an email, but before he could read it, Rick continued. “I got my Heritage Tree DNA results back and their not good . . . I’m a match with Ilsa.”
“A match?” Sam left school at 16 and played piano full time on a riverboat. Being a geneticist was not a possibility on the bayou, but Sam had a good idea what Rick was hinting at.
“Yeah, we’re related.”
Sam read the email that contained the DNA test results. “But, Boss it says you and her shared a common ancestor ten generations ago on your father’s side.”
“We are related. That’s the end of it. I been really bad. C’mon Sam, you know . . . that’s sick. But, I’ll show them sons a bitches!” Rick pointed at the bottles lining the back of the mirrored bar. “Gimme that one!” Realizing he was bellowing at Sam, he lowered his voice, and whispered “that one.”
Sam had no clue what bottle Rick wanted, but made a random grab anyway, and set a bottle of Bowmore 18 years old single malt down on the table. Rick was busy tearing open a new DNA test kit, in the semi-darkness of the bar, all the while muttering “I’ll show 'em, I’ll show 'em,” as bubble wrap fell all around him. He poured the Bowmore into his tumbler, with a Q-tip, he swabbed the inside of the glass, and then dropped it into the specimen container. Sam sent it out by courier the next day because he feared the use of the local courier service would soon be banned. This is not outside the realm of possibility thought Sam, given the fact that a Nazi Major Strasser had arrived in town to investigate the recent murder of two German couriers and the disappearance of their precious cargo: Letters of Transit. But, that's a story for another day.
A month or so later, Rick got a new Y-DNA 37 test result back that said:
Rick Blaine Y-DNA Test (AKA: Bowmore 18yrs Single Malt Scotch Whisky)
Price
Reasonable considering it is an 18 year old single malt Scotch.
ABV
43%
Artificial Color?
Yes.
Chill Filtration?
Yes.
Wood Management
A combination of ex-bourbon and Oloroso sherry casks.
Closure
Cork stopper.
Distribution
Widely available.
Region of Scotland
Islay.
Nose (undiluted)
Fragrant, sherry, light smoke, slight peat, seaweed. Orange peel, orange chocolate. Solid oak and malt notes.
Palate (undiluted)
Fruit forward, like a Napa Valley Cabernet, delivering cherries, black grapes, toffee, salted caramel, brown sugar, molasses, which is accented by a light treatment of peat and smoke.
Finish (undiluted)
Good length. Red wine Bordeaux, bacon, vanilla, raisins, cigar smoke.
General Impressions
The stereotypical Islay single malt Scotch is a peat and smoke blast, and then, well more peat and more smoke with maybe some black pepper for good measure. Bowmore 18’s DNA contributes to a departure from the aforementioned stereotype. This Islay malt is sweet, soft, the peat and smoke is delicate, restrained and even muted by the aging in Oloroso sherry casks. With a rather modest phenolic level of 35 ppm, it’s the sherry notes that dominate the peat and smoke of Islay. Not the other way around, as one would normally expect of an Islay malt.
Bowmore 12 and 18 are very different malts for this reason. The 12 is peated, briny and of the sea, so to speak. There can be no doubt of it’s regional origin, Islay. But, if someone told me in a blind tasting to guess the ancestry of Bowmore 18 I would have thought the Highlands.
Criticisms? Bowmore 18 takes no chances. It’s a gentle malt, balanced to the point of being a bit boring/flat if you are into powerhouses with higher ABV’s or seeking complexity. I really think had this whisky been non-chill filtered and no artificial color, we would be tasting more complexity. Most 18 year old single malts will wow you in taste and complexity. Bowmore 18 does not. Nevertheless, very drinkable and my bottle disappeared quickly as I sampled and pondered it’s lack of nuance.
So, if you are relatively new to whisky and want to try an inviting, balanced, easygoing single malt with an 18 years age statement, Bowmore 18 fits the bill. If you consider yourself a serious connoisseur of malts where emphasis is placed upon complexity, power and the glory of single malt, well, you be best to pass on this. And now, back to the story . . .
Sam looked over the new DNA test results and said, “Mr. Richard, I don’t see Isla’s name here. You’re good. Just some distant relatives Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Port Ellen, whoever she is.”
A good friend of mine (though I would never tell him I consider him as such, given my faux-British stiff-upper lip adoption caused by filling my teen years binging on Fawlty Towers, The Fall and Rise of Reginald Perrin and Churchill documentaries) did gift me for my birthday a bottle of Aultmore 12 years Single Malt.
I had seen this bottle as a newcomer to the shelves of the local liquor store, but wasn't keen on buying a totally unknown commodity. I mean who has heard of Aultmore? I did a quick internet search and learned that this distillery is basically a source malt for what goes in Dewar's blended whisky. Not the strongest lineage in the whisky world. I mean we all know about Highland Park, Macallan and others, but Aultmore? The name sounds like a medical condition. I can just imagine my near centenarian doctor with his bifocals low on the bridge of his beak as he peers at me with clear disdain and says with a hint of Lanchashire, "you've Aultmore of the privates m'boy and it has spread to the lower GI tract."
Not expensive, but not the cheapest 12 year old single malt. It is priced moderately and does boast on its packaging non-chill filtration and no artificial colour. Plus it weighs in at a hefty 46% ABV so that could augur some complexity of flavour or disaster. As you know friend, only one way to find out.
Region
Speyside
Category
Single Malt
ABV
46%
Artificial Color?
No!
Chill filtration?
No!
Wood Management
Ex-Bourbon casks. Not tasting any ex-sherry casks. Don't believe any are used.
Nose (undiluted)
Floral notes of dandelion, roses, apple blossoms, honey sweetness and butter. Very balanced and pleasing drawing you in again and again.
Palate (undiluted)
Powerful burst of graprefruit and pears. Honey, fruit cup syrup (in a good way!), golden wheat, barley, vanilla, banana, English cream and custard.
Finish (undiluted)
Cream, lemons, sea salt, limes. The flavors linger a long time!
Add Water?
Yeah, you could but you would rob yourself of the wonderful complexity of this single malt. When you have no artificial color, no chill filtration and a higher ABV, that is a recipe for greater complexity and you get it here!
Peer Review
If you like Chivas Regal 12, 18, Dalwhinnie and Glenfiddich 15 Solera you are gonna love Aultmore 12.
Conclusion
Friend, I love this stuff!
It's affordable, non-chillfiltered, no artificial colour and a high ABV of 46%. All of these factors plus the Master Blender's tremendous talent in never letting this malt taste hot or fiery makes it a must buy. Amazing that a whisky devoid of smoke, peat and sherry can be so good, but it is. Put it on your list! It's good for what ails you! Especially if you contract Aultmore of the privates!
20,000 bottles released to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the distillery.
Price
Varies widely, but in New Hampshire I paid $60. Reasonable but I have seen some very high prices elsewhere in excess of $100 (not reasonable).
Wood Management
Aged exclusively in refill bourbon casks. No ex-sherry casks involved.
Nose (undiluted)
Without water, the aromas that lift out of your glass are delightful. Minty, hickory wood, seaside bonfire, hint of banana and lemons too. Add water and these aromas are blurred.
Palate (diluted)
You really have to add some water given the 48% ABV. With a little water you will get big time salt, loads of hard, coarse salt, custard and of course smoke and peat. There are green minty notes with wet wood smoke too.
Finish (diluted)
Dry zing of black peppercorns, dry ginger, camphor, menthol and phenolic notes abound.
General Impressions
This is a bold expression from the Lagavulin distillery that serves up lively peat and smoke, lemon zest and banana, plus some wood char. It is really comparable in taste to Ardbeg 10 or Laphroaig Quarter Cask.
Lagavulin 8 years is a youthful, robust peat bomb in a glass. Do not think of this whisky as a younger version of Lagavulin 16 years. They are very different whiskies.
Definitely peat and smoke fans of Islay malts will enjoy, but if Islay malts are not your cup of tea, then probably best to avoid this expression and opt for something that is gentler like an easy going blend (Islay Mist, White Horse, etc.). Personally, I prefer a more refined taste of the 16 year old Lagavulin, but that is a different malt all together given the aging in sherry casks and much older malts.
Nose (undiluted)
Splendid! Luxuriant! Floral! Bouquet of apple and cherrie blossoms. Nice honey sweetness.
Palate (undiluted)
Honey, peanut brittle, marzipan and baklava with a swirl of peat, dark red sherry and a flourish of smoke. Delightful briny water and peat (Talisker and Caol Ila for sure!) flourishes against the honey background.
Finish (undiluted)
Long. Lingering subtle waves of sweet peat that mingle with Swiss milk chocolate. Nice accents of black pepper, Kosher salt and bergamot teas.
Green Label, a blend of four great single malts, is superior to a lot of 10 and 12 year old single malts out there on the market. Do not fear the 'blended malt' moniker somehow being inferior to 'single malt.' Cragganmore and Linkwood are honey and syrup like malts that pair with the peat, lemon zest and surf brine of Caol Ila and Talisker. These are all great single malts on their own, and when combined together here, deliver a complex and delightful taste.
When they relaunched Green Label in 2016, the bottling I had was rather flat in taste. Just a boring honey Speyside style. Now, a year later, it appears the Master Blender and team have spiced things up with what I suspect is a lot more Talisker and Caol Ila in the mix. Vast improvement.
Production Notes
Unchillfiltered and no artificial coloring.
Nose (diluted)
Mildly antiseptic, loam earth, smoky, road tar.
Palate (diluted)
Salty sea water, brine, iodine, ginger sweetness, big peat and black sooty smoke.
Finish (diluted)
Ginger, kippers, smoked mackerel and sharp peppercorns.
General Impressions
This is priced a little less or right along side inexpensive, entry level single malts. For the price, you are going to receive a big peat, smoke and peppercorn tasting malt with sweet ginger to boot.
If you like Ardbeg, Laphroaig and other malts of Islay, you will like this non-Islay malt that competes with the aforementioned distilleries.
For those of you who do not like the taste of peppercorns, peat and smoke with a twist, and much prefer honeyed, salted caramel fair with some sherry that is typical of Speyside and the Highlands, then Ledaig is not for you.
For me, I like Ledaig when in the mood for good peat, sweet smoke, beach fire notes, this is a great ship to take me there.
If Johnnie Walker Black was a fellow, he would be a young, lean, angular jawed, recent MBA grad, full of ambition with his career mapped out in exhaustive Montblanc detail on a coffee shop napkin, should you care to ask.
Got an expensive car lease that you impulsively plunged into during the sunny honeymoon period with your ex-gf, and now, under the gathering sombre clouds of insolvency, you are desperate to escape? Johnnie actually knows someone, who knows someone, who wants that overpriced and unreliable German automotive piece of revenge, launched against us because our grandfathers won the War. After a volley of texts, email, and countless lattes, you will find yourself, an offender released from the Mercedes Benz Finance debtor's prison.
Seated next to Johnnie, in a gray Philadelphia Eagles poncho, is Glen, or more precisely Glenfiddich 12, and he likes fishing, Coors Light and football. Everyone likes Glen, particularly the ladies. He has an interesting opinion on everything from Ford truck lift kits to what kind of industrial glue, wax and gold metallic paint is used to maintain Trump's pompadour!
And sitting across from these two characters at the coffee shop/ bookstore / consignment art gallery, or hunting ground for a Friday night date, is Jura. He's got the J.Crew catalogue thing goin' on a little too much with the green merino wool v-neck, the golf ball white Brooks Brothers button down underneath, and of course ironed safari beige khakis. Are we in church or trying to meet ladies in a coffee shop / bookstore / avante garde nude interpretative dance theatre troupe gallery or whatever the hell this place is? C'mon Mr. Rogers !!!
What can I tell you about Jura? He's frugal. Cheap to hang out with, but damn, the 25 cent tip he leaves behind is a bitter reminder to the waitress that it is a cold world out there just like February's icicles lining the metal awning beyond the cafe's storefront window.
Category
Single Malt Scotch
Price
Cheap price for the 10 yr single malt category.
Region
Island (Jura) Age
10 years
Closure
Cork stopper ABV
43% (depending on market, may be 40%) Production Note
Aged exclusively in ex-bourbon casks, unpeated.
Palate (undiluted)
Creamy, banana, oak, melon, honey, coconut and white cake bread. Faint marine/dulse note (even though the malt is not peated, maybe the bogs covering much of the island transfer some peat/phenolic notes into the natural water supply used by this distillery). Wood smoke / kippers.
Finish (undiluted)
Tight green apple, slightly acidic green pepper, unripened melon, bitter lemon seed and orange pith. Some mackerel and wet wood smoke too.
General Impressions
Jura delivers the goods for the price, but just barely. The grapefruit pith and lemon rind finish is simply too bitter to be pleasant leaving this malt unbalanced and wanting. Maybe it needed more time in the cask. Or maybe the spirit needed some time in sherry casks to soften the citrus bitterness. I suspect so.
For what you paid, you receive a very basic malt. No complexity, no intrigue, no excitement. Maybe sometime you may want a simple Maritime style whisky that will not break the bank.
You are not being wowed. Your friend is not Highland Park 18 doing an in-store poetry reading, that attracts a circle of fluttering ladies like moths to a flame.
Instead, Jura is a strait-laced / law abiding fellow, who by turns can be a little taciturn, which makes it hard to attract bees since there is little honey sweetness once the finish arrives or when he opens his mouth to speak. I mean, he is not willing to accept some sherry casks and peat into his personality. Need I say more? He would be more charismatic if he would adopt the easygoing world view of Glen. As a friend, you accept Jura's risk-averse nature for what it is, a decent character, who by turns is a little bitter and astringent.
Cheers!
Jason Debly
P.S. Glenfiddich 12 is typically priced lower than Jura 10 yrs "Origin" and does not present any of the bitter grapefruit pith notes. However, Glenfiddich 12 is not particularly smoky or marine-like in the style of Jura. If you want the nautical and sea-like style around the same price point, then please consider Old Pulteney 12 years.
Palate (undiluted)
Creamy port, dark chocolate, light spiciness of berries, fig and pecans. The body is light!
Finish (undiluted)
Herbaceous, mineral water notes, grapefruit, blood oranges and apricot.
Finish is long.
General Impressions
At 46% ABV you are probably thinking it is going to be a little fiery and hot. Not the case here! The master blender has done a wonderful job in delivering a balanced, textured and not over the top dram. There is a spiciness on the palate, but it is gentle. The body of this malt is fairly light unlike it competitor like Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban 12 years that is heavier and a wee jammy. What sets this port wood finish malt apart from other port finished malts is how it starts with traditional port flavors (fig, strawberry, nutmeg) and then becomes surprisingly citrusy with grapefruit and apricot. A real transition that works very well! A lot of port finish malts start with those typical port notes and build from there as would be the case with Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban or the far more expensive Balvenie 21 year old port wood.
You could add water certainly and you should experiment. I am just am hooked on the neat taste of this malt.
Between now and New Year's this will be my dram to warm me from the cold winter!
"Yesterday, my boss swung by my office and told me to come see her."
Keith paused, let out a triumphant belch, crushed his can of Schlitz upon his blue jean thigh and then continued.
"I was thinkin' . . . ahh shit, not the Lara Croft saga again."
Earlier this year, he had pinned to the gray fabric partition of his cubicle, a movie poster of the fictional video game character, the voluptuous British archaeologist/explorer, who passes her time ducking poisonous blow darts while trekking through ancient, dangerous tombs and ruins. His white pressboard cubicle bookshelf was also adorned with Lara Croft figurines striking feisty action poses with big guns drawn, firearms that is.
Have I also mentioned he is 46 years old, a genius software coder, who lives in his mother's basement, and is my one of my best friends? And, what does this say about me? Leave that for another post.
Anyhow, to Keith's utter bewilderment, someone in the office took offence to his cinematic poster and action figure selections. HR invited Keith to a windowless meeting room where they laid out the complaint. In response, he invoked nonsensical freedom of expression arguments. He also protested, in vain, that no one complained about his Star Wars figures: bikini clad Princess Leia entwined with Jabba the Hutt.
In any event, his employer proffered what they termed a 'compromise.' Either he make the poster and offending figurines disappear or he would be disappearing from the software company's payroll quicker than an arrow flies from Ms. Croft's crossbow.
"I still had Lara as my screensaver, and thought that maybe the boss was gonna whine about that."
His defiance reduced to a computer screen in sleep mode was not wise, and any attempt to warn him was dismissed with a wave of his pudgy mitt that clasped a fresh replacement to the recently compacted Schlitz can. He had moved on to Old Milwaukee.
"Turns out, it was not about that at all. She has a new idea for an app she wants me to work on. It had nothing to do with the Tomb Raider."
Keith seemed to be trying to conjure up another belch, but his gastrointestinal tract would not cooperate. Instead, my Chinese friend momentarily grimaced in effort while his lower lip quivered kinda like Jabba the Hutt.
"What's the app?" Roger asked while making braised Provençal beef.
We were in his sunny country kitchen and he was at his island gas grille expertly stirring sauce in one pan, and searing chunks of beef in another. Amidst the steaming pots and hissing frying pans, he would nonchalantly toss a dirty pot into the double sink from where he stood, a distance of about ten feet. He had worked in Brussels, Lyon and his native Lancashire, not to mention a few places in the New World.
"She wants me to develop a whisky tasting note app."
. . .
The braised Provençal beef was rib sticking fare of chunks of seared beef in a dark sauce that had duck fat, pre-glazed carrots, oven dried tomato, artichoke and turnip. Between this French dish, the tannic-of the soil red Bordeaux, and the crackling fireplace next to the kitchen table, I was listening without really understanding as Roger explained the recipe that Saturday afternoon in cold December.
Eventually, I could no longer follow the conversation of spices, repeated braising at certain intervals, the changes in pans, and oven cooking temperatures, to the point that my mind set sail on a river of Bordeaux and eventually came to the shore of whisky apps, no doubt inspired by Keith's tale of self-inflicted workplace woe. And then a thought came to mind. Maybe I should rate them all and let you know the best whisky app available.
. . .
The Best Whisky App of 2016
Here at Jason's Scotch Whisky Reviews, I and my team of testers (Keith and Roger) have spent the past month downloading every available whisky app onto our respective smartphones and computers in hopes of discovering the best whisky app for you. I am happy to report that after surveying the marketplace, paying close attention to cost, availability, absence of software glitches, and a multitude of other performance metrics, we can report with authority that the best whisky tasting notes app is the:
"Whisky Bottle"
Whisky Bottle
Every whisky app has its strengths and weaknesses. What we were particularly impressed with was how well the Whisky Bottle performed in areas where wifi was not available. The display performed consistently. Software updates were never a concern. The label on each single malt Scotch bottle we tested provided us clear, easy to understand text, the name of the distillery, age statement, ABV and capacity (e.g. 750 ml). Now, we must admit the font chosen by some brands took a little bit of getting used to, like take for example the bottle pictured above. The "Dalwhinnie" script was a little different and not as simple as say the 16 point Times New Roman font that you might see on other bottles like say Johnnie Walker Black, but with a little time and possibly a libation or two, we were able to adapt.
Because we did not need wifi or a data plan to operate the Whisky Bottle, that meant it was very mobile. Park benches, even in the rain, were no problem. The interface display, namely the label did degrade somewhat during testing in a heavy downpour at a local park. The ink on the label did seem to run a bit, but we just moved to the trees and under those mighty branches, the display significantly improved. Plus it became more user friendly as the bottle was less slippery!
Software updates were naturally not a concern. No patches needed here. One's personal identity was not exposed to hacking, unless he downloaded too much of the Whisky Bottle content at the office Christmas party, and then started hitting on the waitress who happens to be his neighbor's daughter. Then a user's identity or reputation could be put at risk.
During our extensive testing we were comforted by not having to have access to an adequately charged smartphone to operate the Whisky Bottle. While USB power cords, adapters and electrical outlets were not needed, there was one accessory that was a must: the Glencairn glass. Without this user interface device, operation of the Whisky Bottle attracted stares from onlookers in restaurants, bars and the park we were in. This in turn drew the unwanted attention of the police, who unceremoniously pulled out handcuffs when we explained we were doing field testing.
Armed with a Glencairn glass, one can operate the Whisky Bottle with relative ease and develop tasting notes very quickly in real time. A case in point, here is the tasting note produced by a bottle of Dalwhinnie when accessorized with a Glencairn glass:
Dalwhinnie 15 years Single Malt Scotch
Nose (undiluted)
Vanilla, apple blossoms, pears.
Palate (undiluted)
Apple peel, bruised apple sweetness, salted almonds drizzled with wild honey, lemon zest and barley toys.
Mid-to-Late Palate (undiluted)
Spices emerge, baking soda, thyme, rosemary and walnut.
Finish (undiluted)
Drying malt, pencil lead, graphite, white oak, balsa, part your lips and breathe and you will taste smoke and remnants of heather.
The Whisky Bottle, with Glencairn add-on, allows the user to draw their own conclusions and general impressions. We found this much more readily accepted by the user than to rely on someone else's opinion, or sorting through endless Facebook and Twitter feeds. With respect to Dalwhinnie 15 years, our testers had the following impressions:
Very sweet whisky that is devoid of sherry and peat. Fortunately, it does transition mid-palate to become dryer, but overall a pretty sweet dram. Newbies to whisky will certainly like this Highland Malt and prices tend to be good, so it is worth seeking out!
Cheers!
Jason Debly
P.S. If you don't like the Whisky Bottle app, as it is costly on a per bottle basis, try downloading a You Tube app and watch our review for free!
We were sitting on the front porch of monmaison. Fishing rods with shiny brass reels, grandad's creel, a dented bottle-green metal tackle box, and other implements of marine life destruction were propped up against the railing. I slouched further in my Adirondack chair that my wife had declared, at breakfast, must be painted before winter. I easily peeled away some of the yellow paint with my fingernail and pondered if that chore could be done before it got too cold, given it was now October.
I snapped out of my handyman trance due to the chirping metal sounds of the Tin Snail braking as it turned onto my street. The '72 Citroën DS Break was one pale, sea green, junk fish of a vehicle that had headlights reminiscent of a shark's snout and eyes.
You want a whisky that compliments the great hobby of angling, but doesn't become a distraction because it is amazingly complex or gag-reflex terrible. The chosen whisky has to be pleasant, able to keep us company, but not too chatty like the software salesman seated next to you on a long flight, or the know-it-all retiree you get paired with on a golf course. Had to be cheap too! All these pressing considerations caused me to select Old Pulteney 12 years Single Malt Scotch. It has a marine and fishy quality without being very complex or expensive that seemed well suited for our chosen leisure activity.
Distribution
Widely available.
Price
Pretty much one of the cheapest 12 year old single malts available. Frequently discounted by retailers.
Format
700ml bottle, so 50ml less than the typical Scotch bottle. I can overlook this because of the low price.
ABV
40% is the bottle I have, but other countries sometimes get 43%.
Palate (undiluted)
Salty taste of the foaming sea, lemon rind, rosewood, a hint of Ocean Spray Cranberry Cocktail, faint oak.
Finish (undiluted)
Short but interesting. Notes of bacon, mackerel, kippers but rhubarb too, ginger and lemon again.
General Impressions
Everything I have read about Old Pulteney claims that it is aged exclusively in ex-bourbon casks. I am surprised because I really think I taste some aging in sherry wood. I really do. A little sherry, dark and sweet red fruits. Hmmm. Evidently I am mistaken.
. . .
Old Pulteney fit the bill as a pleasing economy sipper to accompany Keith and I while we stood quietly on the stony shore, facing the dark blue lake, hoping to land our dîner before the Gallic Shark returned to collect us in his rusty Tin Snail!
Cheers!
Jason Debly
Photo Credit: Citroen photos by Jason Torchinsky who is the holder of copyright and all moral rights. His great review of his passion for Citroens available here. All the other photos are mine and feel free to use them for non-commercial purposes.
I was at a whisky tasting last night in Jarge's backyard and there was a brand new, unopened, bottle of Lagavulin 8 years, courtesy of whisky dawg Ken. He picked it up in Manchester, New Hampshire for $50 on sale (normally retails for $65-$70).
Any single malt under ten years of age makes me shiver. Scotch needs time in the cask to soften it up. A lot of time is needed to tame the bite of the white dog, the smoke, the peat and iodine of the sea when dealing with Islay. So, I viewed this recent release from the Lagavulin distillery with some trepidation. I wanted it to be good because I like and respect the 16 year old so much. But, bottling whisky from the same distillery at half the age? That is fraught with danger!
Bottled at ABV 48% made me think this is gonna be really strong and in need of water. It was aged in refill ex-bourbonAmerian oak casks. European oak aging is also reported too.
Holding the glass up, I notice it is very pale which to me suggests no artificial coloring, but apparently this is not true. I have read that it is colored with E150. Oh well, you purists can stop reading now, but for the rest of whisky tramps, read on!
From the first sip I was hooked. It may be 48% ABV but sure was smooth like the coat of a well groomed Doberman, without the bite. While it was peated and smoked with mackerel notes, there were also intriguing dark red fruits making an appearance. Complexity abounds. There is a sweetness of the smoke and iodine that intertwines with dark plum, fig and even some citrus notes. I added water, maybe a little too much on a second glass and kinda diluted it a bit too much. Water should be administered in drops.
This is a great place for a novice wondering about Islay whiskies. It is also a great place for a mangy old whisky dawg like me.
At half the price or lower than the 16, Lagavulin 8 years is highly recommended!
Approximately 40 different whiskies make up this blended Scotch whisky. Each whisky has a minimum age of at least 12 years. The proportion of grain and malt whiskies making up this blend is unknown.
There is artificial coloring added too.
The price is sharking up.
But, guess what? It's still the best 12 year old blended Scotch in the market place.
Nose (undiluted)
Vanilla, gentle peat, ocean air with a salty tang, orange rind and floral notes.
Palate (undiluted)
The taste experience commences with smooth, sweet cinnamon, caramel, toffee, toasted almonds, brown sugar, malt, some spiciness, but not to the point of pepper, which evaporates quickly into clouds of subtle peat and smoke.
Finish (undiluted)
Very restrained peat with a flourish of smoke and grains of sea salt round out this tasting experience.
General Impressions
This is the gold standard of 12 year old blended Scotch category. Costs a bit more, but is worth it. Very consistent bottle to bottle. The master blender and team do an amazing job of maintaining the consistent flavor bottle to bottle, batch to batch.
In 2013, Burn Stewart Distillery relaunched a long established blended Scotch brand: Black Bottle. They changed the bottle and they changed the contents. With a new mashbill the question is whether or not it is as good as the older version?
Prior to 2013, Black Bottle was a wonderful blended Scotch with a tremendous amount of smooth, sweet Islay whiskies with some grain whiskies that were never offensive. A real treat that was super cheap to buy too! I mean typically around $23 or so. It and White Horse dominated the very best of blended Scotch whisky bargains. The new version tasting note is as follows:
ABV
40%
Age Statement
None
Nose (undiluted)
Spirity, young for sure, but getting past that it exhibits notes of sea air, smoke, roses. Nothing special here, nor did I expect an incredible nose given the cheap blend price.
Palate (undiluted)
Sherry for sure, hardly any Islay influence like peat and smoke. I am tasting black grapes, black cherry, graphite, pencil lead and young oak.
Finish (undiluted)
Smokey, like a damp wood fire beachside, with much grainy notes, sandy, mineral water and herbs.
General Impressions
Big disappointment. This is a shadow of its predecessor. What was once a wonderfully smooth and peated blended Scotch with plenty of Islay notes of tar, seaweed and dulse is now a tired, boring and young whisky exhibiting dull black grapes, black cherry and little smoke.
Recommendation
Do not buy. This represents a cheap blended Scotch whisky experience that I do not care to repeat.
If you ever see the old Black Bottle on a shelf, buy it! Here is a review of the pre-2013 bottling:
Closure
Plastic/Silicon stopper that was made to look like cork.
Nose (undiluted)
Oak, Caramel and an astingency/alcohol swab.
Palate (undiluted)
Sweet oak, big time caramel, I mean a lot of caramel that makes me think I am tasting the E150 that was undoubtedly added to make the color darker. The caramel is too sweet and almost synthetic. Oak is here as well as chocolate flavor powdered Nestle's Quik. Christmas cake, rum notes.
Finish (undiluted)
Length is medium, consisting of an astringency/bitterness that is a mix of rubbing alcohol and oak. A little creme brulee?
General Impressions
This is very smooth, caramel dominated whisky with some chocolate powder and creme brulee followed by an astringency/bitterness of the grapefruit pith variety. The whisky is not horrible, but not exceptional by any means. I really think this should be used as mix and nothing more. Not great neat. I cannot recommend this whisky for sipping. As a mix it works with ginger ale and as the ingredient whisky base of cocktails.
The best selling spirit in the United States is Canadian whisky. Why? A number of reasons for this like: it's affordable or down right cheap in price, the flavor profile appeals to a lot of people as Canadian whisky is typically smooth and somewhat sweet, and finally it tends to make for a damn good mixed drink. Marries well with the likes of ginger ale and other sodas.
In the past, Canadian whisky was not regarded as a worthwhile drink to be sipped neat. Times have changed. In the past few years, Canadian whisky has undergone a renaissance of sorts. A lot of innovation has taken place and a lot of money has been spent to improve this category by the companies that own the many famous brands. Canadian Club is not an exception.
Price
$27 in Canada
Distillery
Alberta Distillers, Calgary, Alberta, Canada
ABV
40%
Age Statement
None on the label but the component whiskies making up this blend, according to reliable sources has been aged for 7 years.
Closure
Plastic twist off cap.
Nose (undiluted)
Surprisingly floral. Hints of roses, wet leaves, like the damp air you inhale as you walk through a forest following a light rainfall.
Palate (undiluted)
Gorgeous rye bread gives way to sweet oak, vanilla, cloves, a dusting of thyme and sage, red fruits and berries.
General Impressions
This is an amazing value for money proposition! $27 for a bottle of 100% rye whisky that is perfectly balanced without bitterness, bite or any offensive qualities, yet at the same time sufficiently interesting that you will have no hesitation in returning to time and time again for another reward of artisan rye bread, caramelized oak flavors and a nice lingering finish.
I am not a fan of the standard bottling of Canadian Club, and so was really leery about this brand extension, but I had a friend that insisted it was worth a go, so tried it and was really impressed. The price may be cheap, but the quality is there. I did read somewhere that Beam-Suntory (brand owner) put a lot of thought into the price, and the theory is that they are trying to lure in younger consumers who cannot afford higher price points. This could have easily been priced $15 higher, and would have found a market waiting for it.
This is a highly recommended bottle for someone who is wondering what is the big deal about Canadian whisky and interested in a fine example of this whisky category that can be enjoyed neat.
Cheers!
Jason Debly
P.S. As much as I like Canadian Club Chairman's Select 100% Rye, I cannot say the same for another Canadian Club release Canadian Club Small Batch Classic 12 yrs. The latter is too sweet, cheap caramel notes, overly oaked and the nose is raw rubbing alcohol the nurse swabs your shoulder with before the big needle! Not recommended.
The Glentauchers Distillery was established in 1897 or 1898 depending on which textbook you consult or website you land on. Being such an old distillery and having an output of around 3 million litres annually, you would expect this distillery would enjoy a bit of brand-name recognition. Not so. I had never heard of it either till I laid my eyes on a bottle during a recent visit to my local liquor emporium with fellow whisky dawg, Ken. Our mission was to buy some obscure bottling for our next whisky club meeting.
Sitting proudly on the shelf was a bottle of Glentauchers, but this whisky was not released by the distillery as an official bottling. Instead, Gordon & MacPhail had bought up some Glentauchers 'new-make' spirit, poured it into their own casks, maybe let it remain at the distillery warehouse for further aging or moved it to their storage facilities. I don't know as this independent bottler is not about to give away their tricks of the trade. Nevertheless, G&M saw potential in the 1994 distillation of Glentauchers single malt and felt with just the right amount of aging in their choice of casks they just might have a winner. They bottled it in 2014 and out to market it went.
Just another quick note about Glentauchers. While you are not familiar with the name, you probably have tasted it in the past, well, at least as a component single malt added to blended Scotch whiskies like Ballantine's Finest, Teacher's Highland Cream and Black & White. The only time the distillery had an official release of the single malt to the public was in 2000 and that was a 15 year old edition.
Price
$125 Canadian Distilled
1994
Bottled
2014
ABV
43%
Format
700ml
Closure
Natural cork stopper
Region
Speyside
Cask Type
Sherry butts and remade American hogsheads.
Nose (undiluted)
A little peat, very little tickles the nose before some orange and lime peel and lemon pulp appear. Pleasant.
Palate (undiluted)
Sweet lemon meringue, oak, soft vanilla, pineapple chunks with lots of citrus notes, especially lemon and ruby red grapefruit.
Finish (undiluted)
Apricot, star fruit, light treatment of sherry, drying, balsa wood.
General Impressions
If I had to sum up the taste of this Speyside single malt in a word, it would be: grapefruit. It tastes like ruby red grapefruit juice. It is also sweet with some drying sensation on the finish. The malt is cleansing and light. A dessert whisky. If you like Glenkinchie, Balblair, Glenmorangie Nectar D'OR and other sweet light whiskies then this is in your wheelhouse my friend.
Criticisms? Maybe not overly complex. The flavors are not simple, but not exhibiting any 'wow' factor. Nicely balanced and pleasing, it goes down incredibly easy and before you know it, half the bottle is gone. Trouble is, this goes for $125 a bottle (not $140 as I mistakenly stated in my video review), and at that price point, this is not quaffing whisky. I would happily pay $75 to $80, but again, north of $100 is just too much. Damn those prices! Ah well, it is what it is.
Cheers!
Jason Debly
P.S. As stated above Glentauchers is principally used for blending and functions well in that capacity, but on its own, it does not sparkle. A blender's malt for sure.
