Whisky Review: Canadian Club aged 20 years

In my college days, I was into the music of Miles Davis.  Albums of his like 'Round About Midnight, Kind of Blue and an obscure soundtrack he recorded for a Louis Malle film, Ascenseur pour l'échafaud served as a soundtrack to my leafy campus life.

It was my habit then and today to go real deep into hobbies and interests, which meant I sought out all of Miles' albums.  One of them I read a lot about was Bitches Brew.  A friend lent me the record (I didn't like CDs then, a purist addicted to the deep timbre of vinyl).  I put it on and sat in my dorm room with a French roast coffee (but no black turtleneck and beret) in front of my four foot high or so Yamaha speakers and prepared to be wowed.

I was . . .  not.  The music sounded like a cacophony of unskilled players all playing out of key to very different melodies and rhythms only known to them.  To my ears, the discordant sounds caused me to turn it off within minutes.  I couldn't handle.  It was auditory chaos. I was more bitter about this listening experience than my coffee.

Fast forward 30 years and I am driving to work and decide to give da Bitches another go.  I had basically memorized everything else Davis had done in what I called the classic age,  and was frankly a bit bored.  So, my ears sip on the Brew once more with no expectations.  What the hell?  As I get older, I like stuff that pushes the boundaries more and more.  I mean now I 'get' Andy Kaufman . . . I think.

Anyhow, the record spins again, only now as an iTunes selection off my iPhone in my car via Bluetooth.  I listen.  The music starts quiet and builds into a crescendo of electric piano, electric guitar, basses (two different players), drums, trumpet and sax.  There is a musical motif here, a theme over there, but each musician approaches these soundscapes in his own, unique way.  I am listening and liking the shocking liberties these guys are taking with the conventions of classic jazz I had inhaled since college.  And, then it dawned on me, now I GET IT!  I understand what Davis was doing on BB.  He's bored with the jazz of the past and now throws in discordant sounds hinting at rock and funk music.  There are complex layers of melodies and rhythms that fade in and out, some making a singular appearance while others recur.  The music sounds random, but it's not.  It creates an unnerving atmosphere at certain points, but then becomes soothing at others, kinda like life. 

I reviewed Canadian Club 20 years old many years ago .  I wasn't kind.  I said some incredibly stupid things like Canadian Club 20 years disappoints.  Just as I did not understand Bitches Brew 30 years ago, so too I didn't understand Canadian Club 20 years old whisky.

In my old review, I had made the rookie mistake of equating the Canadian whisky category with the single malt Scotch category.

Malted barley exhibited the flavour profile that I seemed to like best.  Something magical about malted barley, when combined with great casks, water and of course age.  Such a combination delivers amazing golden cereal and honeyed toast notes, sprinkled with berries and plum due to sherry and port casks, and depending on the region, other flavors could emerge like the brine of the sea and the smoke of a bonfire. Great single malts seem to soar to heights of flavour or can at the same time be subtle like the patter of warm summer rain.  Expecting these attributes and conventions of spirit, if you will, in Canadian and other whiskies of the world, will only lead to disappointment if Scotch is to be the benchmark of flavor attributes.

Canadian whisky is different.  It offers a more narrow palate featuring rye, corn, wheat and big oak at times.  This not necessarily a flaw, but a fundamental difference when contrasted with Scotch whisky. 

Canadian whisky can be light, yet elegant and complex.  The complexity is delivered typically via a backbone of rye, sometimes spicy.  Oakiness is not a flaw in Canadian whisky, whereas in the case of Scotch, too much oak is not as pleasant an experience.  Lots of oak, so long as not becoming bitter, is an acceptable flavor motif of Canadian whisky, as is the spiced rye notes.  In a nutshell, the flavor conventions of Scotch should not be applied to Canadian whisky nor vice versa.  Recognize the 'conventions' of each spirit category and appreciate them within that category.

Canadian Club 20 years old

Mashbill
Rye, corn, malted barley.

ABV
40%

Chill Filtration?
Yes.

Artificial Color?
Yes.

Nose (undiluted)
Soft notes of sweet hay, rye, copper pennies, and oak.

Palate (undiluted)
Golden wheat, rye and cinnamon unite in a wonderful way.  They are joined by toffee and caramel in a spicy, warm embrace.

Finish (undiluted)
Sweetness is gone with a move to dry toast, creme brulee, sawdust and more rye.  Some black pepper too.

General Impressions
Canadian Club 20 years old is an excellent Canadian whisky.  It delights in notes of maple sugar, oak and of course Canadian rye for spice and backbone.

Comparing Canadian Club 20 years to Scotch whisky and then proceeding to criticize it for lacking the flavor attributes of Scotch would be a mistake.

Have a sip of Canadian Club 20 years, and maybe you will GET IT! like how I GOT IT! listening to Bitches Brew.

Best,


Jason Debly

Whisky Review: Canadian Club Small Batch Classic 12 yrs

Price
$28

ABV
40%

Age Statement
12 years

Closure
Plastic/Silicon stopper that was made to look like cork.

Nose (undiluted)
Oak, Caramel and an astingency/alcohol swab.

Palate (undiluted)
Sweet oak, big time caramel, I mean a lot of caramel that makes me think I am tasting the E150 that was undoubtedly added to make the color darker.  The caramel is too sweet and almost synthetic.  Oak is here as well as chocolate flavor powdered Nestle's Quik.  Christmas cake, rum notes.

Finish (undiluted)
Length is medium, consisting of an astringency/bitterness that is a mix of rubbing alcohol and oak.  A little creme brulee?

General Impressions
This is very smooth, caramel dominated whisky with some chocolate powder and creme brulee followed by an astringency/bitterness of the grapefruit pith variety.  The whisky is not horrible, but not exceptional by any means.  I really think this should be used as mix and nothing more.  Not great neat.  I cannot recommend this whisky for sipping.  As a mix it works with ginger ale and as the ingredient whisky base of cocktails.

Cheers!



Jason Debly

Whisky Review: Canadian Club Chairman's Select 100% Rye

The best selling spirit in the United States is Canadian whisky.  Why?  A number of reasons for this like:  it's affordable or down right cheap in price, the flavor profile appeals to a lot of people as Canadian whisky is typically smooth and somewhat sweet, and finally it tends to make for a damn good mixed drink.  Marries well with the likes of ginger ale and other sodas.

In the past, Canadian whisky was not regarded as a worthwhile drink to be sipped neat.  Times have changed.  In the past few years, Canadian whisky has undergone a renaissance of sorts.  A lot of innovation has taken place and a lot of money has been spent to improve this category by the companies that own the many famous brands.  Canadian Club is not an exception.

Price
$27 in Canada

Distillery
Alberta Distillers, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

ABV 
40%

Age Statement
None on the label but the component whiskies making up this blend, according to reliable sources has been aged for 7 years.

Closure
Plastic twist off cap.

Nose (undiluted)
Surprisingly floral.  Hints of roses, wet leaves, like the damp air you inhale as you walk through a forest following a light rainfall.

Palate (undiluted)
Gorgeous rye bread gives way to sweet oak, vanilla, cloves, a dusting of thyme and sage, red fruits and berries.

Finish (undiluted)
Cleansing, fresh, cinnamon, zesty wild honey on darkened rye toast.

General Impressions
This is an amazing value for money proposition!  $27 for a bottle of 100% rye whisky that is perfectly balanced without bitterness, bite or any offensive qualities, yet at the same time sufficiently interesting that you will have no hesitation in returning to time and time again for another reward of artisan rye bread, caramelized oak flavors and a nice lingering finish.

I am not a fan of the standard bottling of Canadian Club, and so was really leery about this brand extension, but I had a friend that insisted it was worth a go, so tried it and was really impressed.  The price may be cheap, but the quality is there.  I did read somewhere that Beam-Suntory (brand owner) put a lot of thought into the price, and the theory is that they are trying to lure in younger consumers who cannot afford higher price points.  This could have easily been priced $15 higher, and would have found a market waiting for it.

This is a highly recommended bottle for someone who is wondering what is the big deal about Canadian whisky and interested in a fine example of this whisky category that can be enjoyed neat.

Cheers!



Jason Debly

P.S.  As much as I like Canadian Club Chairman's Select 100% Rye, I cannot say the same for another Canadian Club release Canadian Club Small Batch Classic 12 yrs.  The latter is too sweet, cheap caramel notes, overly oaked and the nose is raw rubbing alcohol the nurse swabs your shoulder with before the big needle!  Not recommended.

Canadian Whisky Awards - 2010

When you hear the words "Canadian whisky" what comes to mind?  For me, as of late, it has been the fictional character, Don Draper, of the television show, Mad Men, reaching for a bottle of Canadian Club.  Ohh, Don, you're such a lovable 'ol SOB.  Even when you hold a tumbler of CC, you're poking a stick in the eye of Canadian whisky's reputation.  There are so many other Canadian whiskies that are far better.  CC is good with 7-up and that's about it.

Americans buy more Canadian whisky than anyone else.  During Prohibition, that dark time in history when alcohol was banned in the United States, enterprising Canadians were more than happy to meet the US market demand for whisky.  Consumption was strong and the whisky was not great.  Times have changed.

There are now many great Canadian whiskies.  The best site on the web to learn about them is operated by a fellow Canuck, Davin de Kergommeaux (pictured above in a most pensive pose).  Davin's site is aptly entitled "Canadian Whisky" (click here).  He has recently posted the "Canadian Whisky Awards" which recognizes the best Canadian whiskies.  

Check it out!

Cheers!


Jason Debly