Whisky Review: Canadian Club aged 20 years

In my college days, I was into the music of Miles Davis.  Albums of his like 'Round About Midnight, Kind of Blue and an obscure soundtrack he recorded for a Louis Malle film, Ascenseur pour l'échafaud served as a soundtrack to my leafy campus life.

It was my habit then and today to go real deep into hobbies and interests, which meant I sought out all of Miles' albums.  One of them I read a lot about was Bitches Brew.  A friend lent me the record (I didn't like CDs then, a purist addicted to the deep timbre of vinyl).  I put it on and sat in my dorm room with a French roast coffee (but no black turtleneck and beret) in front of my four foot high or so Yamaha speakers and prepared to be wowed.

I was . . .  not.  The music sounded like a cacophony of unskilled players all playing out of key to very different melodies and rhythms only known to them.  To my ears, the discordant sounds caused me to turn it off within minutes.  I couldn't handle.  It was auditory chaos. I was more bitter about this listening experience than my coffee.

Fast forward 30 years and I am driving to work and decide to give da Bitches another go.  I had basically memorized everything else Davis had done in what I called the classic age,  and was frankly a bit bored.  So, my ears sip on the Brew once more with no expectations.  What the hell?  As I get older, I like stuff that pushes the boundaries more and more.  I mean now I 'get' Andy Kaufman . . . I think.

Anyhow, the record spins again, only now as an iTunes selection off my iPhone in my car via Bluetooth.  I listen.  The music starts quiet and builds into a crescendo of electric piano, electric guitar, basses (two different players), drums, trumpet and sax.  There is a musical motif here, a theme over there, but each musician approaches these soundscapes in his own, unique way.  I am listening and liking the shocking liberties these guys are taking with the conventions of classic jazz I had inhaled since college.  And, then it dawned on me, now I GET IT!  I understand what Davis was doing on BB.  He's bored with the jazz of the past and now throws in discordant sounds hinting at rock and funk music.  There are complex layers of melodies and rhythms that fade in and out, some making a singular appearance while others recur.  The music sounds random, but it's not.  It creates an unnerving atmosphere at certain points, but then becomes soothing at others, kinda like life. 

I reviewed Canadian Club 20 years old many years ago .  I wasn't kind.  I said some incredibly stupid things like Canadian Club 20 years disappoints.  Just as I did not understand Bitches Brew 30 years ago, so too I didn't understand Canadian Club 20 years old whisky.

In my old review, I had made the rookie mistake of equating the Canadian whisky category with the single malt Scotch category.

Malted barley exhibited the flavour profile that I seemed to like best.  Something magical about malted barley, when combined with great casks, water and of course age.  Such a combination delivers amazing golden cereal and honeyed toast notes, sprinkled with berries and plum due to sherry and port casks, and depending on the region, other flavors could emerge like the brine of the sea and the smoke of a bonfire. Great single malts seem to soar to heights of flavour or can at the same time be subtle like the patter of warm summer rain.  Expecting these attributes and conventions of spirit, if you will, in Canadian and other whiskies of the world, will only lead to disappointment if Scotch is to be the benchmark of flavor attributes.

Canadian whisky is different.  It offers a more narrow palate featuring rye, corn, wheat and big oak at times.  This not necessarily a flaw, but a fundamental difference when contrasted with Scotch whisky. 

Canadian whisky can be light, yet elegant and complex.  The complexity is delivered typically via a backbone of rye, sometimes spicy.  Oakiness is not a flaw in Canadian whisky, whereas in the case of Scotch, too much oak is not as pleasant an experience.  Lots of oak, so long as not becoming bitter, is an acceptable flavor motif of Canadian whisky, as is the spiced rye notes.  In a nutshell, the flavor conventions of Scotch should not be applied to Canadian whisky nor vice versa.  Recognize the 'conventions' of each spirit category and appreciate them within that category.

Canadian Club 20 years old

Mashbill
Rye, corn, malted barley.

ABV
40%

Chill Filtration?
Yes.

Artificial Color?
Yes.

Nose (undiluted)
Soft notes of sweet hay, rye, copper pennies, and oak.

Palate (undiluted)
Golden wheat, rye and cinnamon unite in a wonderful way.  They are joined by toffee and caramel in a spicy, warm embrace.

Finish (undiluted)
Sweetness is gone with a move to dry toast, creme brulee, sawdust and more rye.  Some black pepper too.

General Impressions
Canadian Club 20 years old is an excellent Canadian whisky.  It delights in notes of maple sugar, oak and of course Canadian rye for spice and backbone.

Comparing Canadian Club 20 years to Scotch whisky and then proceeding to criticize it for lacking the flavor attributes of Scotch would be a mistake.

Have a sip of Canadian Club 20 years, and maybe you will GET IT! like how I GOT IT! listening to Bitches Brew.

Best,


Jason Debly

Whisky Review: Ninety 20 years old Canadian Rye Whisky

Highwood Distillers are the vendor of this whisky, that is not cleverly entitled "Ninety" because it is 90 proof and carries an age statement of 20 years.  I say 'vendor' because Highwood Distillers did not actually distill this spirit, but rather bought it from another distiller or possibly acquired it in a corporate merger (Potter's Distillery).  Highwood then aged it further, performed wood management in ex-bourbon (or ex-Tenessee) casks, and blended the stocks.  The oak casks were reportedly sourced from Jim Beam or Jack Daniels.

The label says it is a "Rye" but actually it is not.  It is 100% corn whisky.  Confusing?  Opaque?  Clintonesque?  Informative as a Bill Belichick press conference?  Me thinks so.  Maybe not intentional, but certainly not helpful to the consumer.  The explanation I received from Highwood Distillers is as follows:

"As a Canadian distiller and following the allowable definition from the government of Canada we continue to use 'Canadian Rye Whisky' as the unique Canadian indentifier . . . just like the Scots do with 'Scotch' as their proprietary descriptor."

In any event, we are dealing with a 100% corn whisky aged for 20 yrs in charred American oak.  Notwithstanding the inarticulate labeling, our quest is to determine if it is any good?

ABV
45%

Closure
Silicon stopper

Price
$50 CDN.

Availability
Canada only.

Nose (undiluted)
Cedar, cooked plums, vanilla, charred oak.

Palate (undiluted)
Melted caramel, maple cream, French Vanilla ice cream, nut meg, toasted coconut, pleasant spiciness late palate.

Finish (undiluted)
Long lasting notes of white chocolate and spiced milk chocolate macaroons.

General Impressions
This is a good whisky in terms of taste and has a lot more spice than one would expect from a 100% corn whisky.  For the price, it is worth the money.

Just one thing bugs me, the use of 'rye' on the label when there is no rye in the mashbill is not reaching the level of transparency I expect of a player in the Canadian spirits industry.

Cheers!



Jason Debly

P.S.  I did correspond via email with Highwood and they answered very promptly a question of a reader about whether or not this is a one-time release:

Hi Jason,

Thank you for your email and thank you for your appreciation and support of Ninety 20yr.

The Whisky is a limited release but not in the context of a one-time bottling. We do have Whisky to support this brand for some years to come but there is only so much 20 year old of this outstanding character to bottle into this brand every year. As the popularity and distribution continues to grow there may be times when it becomes unavailable because we have bottled all the available select Whisky for that year.

For now you should not find any issue with availability, but the Ninety 20 Year has been recognized in review by Whisky Advocate as the 4th best Whisky in the world so word is spreading.

Enjoy, and thank you again for your support.

HIGHWOOD DISTILLERS LTD.
highwood-distillers.com

Whisky Review: Canadian Club Small Batch Classic 12 yrs

Price
$28

ABV
40%

Age Statement
12 years

Closure
Plastic/Silicon stopper that was made to look like cork.

Nose (undiluted)
Oak, Caramel and an astingency/alcohol swab.

Palate (undiluted)
Sweet oak, big time caramel, I mean a lot of caramel that makes me think I am tasting the E150 that was undoubtedly added to make the color darker.  The caramel is too sweet and almost synthetic.  Oak is here as well as chocolate flavor powdered Nestle's Quik.  Christmas cake, rum notes.

Finish (undiluted)
Length is medium, consisting of an astringency/bitterness that is a mix of rubbing alcohol and oak.  A little creme brulee?

General Impressions
This is very smooth, caramel dominated whisky with some chocolate powder and creme brulee followed by an astringency/bitterness of the grapefruit pith variety.  The whisky is not horrible, but not exceptional by any means.  I really think this should be used as mix and nothing more.  Not great neat.  I cannot recommend this whisky for sipping.  As a mix it works with ginger ale and as the ingredient whisky base of cocktails.

Cheers!



Jason Debly

Whisky Review: Canadian Club Chairman's Select 100% Rye

The best selling spirit in the United States is Canadian whisky.  Why?  A number of reasons for this like:  it's affordable or down right cheap in price, the flavor profile appeals to a lot of people as Canadian whisky is typically smooth and somewhat sweet, and finally it tends to make for a damn good mixed drink.  Marries well with the likes of ginger ale and other sodas.

In the past, Canadian whisky was not regarded as a worthwhile drink to be sipped neat.  Times have changed.  In the past few years, Canadian whisky has undergone a renaissance of sorts.  A lot of innovation has taken place and a lot of money has been spent to improve this category by the companies that own the many famous brands.  Canadian Club is not an exception.

Price
$27 in Canada

Distillery
Alberta Distillers, Calgary, Alberta, Canada

ABV 
40%

Age Statement
None on the label but the component whiskies making up this blend, according to reliable sources has been aged for 7 years.

Closure
Plastic twist off cap.

Nose (undiluted)
Surprisingly floral.  Hints of roses, wet leaves, like the damp air you inhale as you walk through a forest following a light rainfall.

Palate (undiluted)
Gorgeous rye bread gives way to sweet oak, vanilla, cloves, a dusting of thyme and sage, red fruits and berries.

Finish (undiluted)
Cleansing, fresh, cinnamon, zesty wild honey on darkened rye toast.

General Impressions
This is an amazing value for money proposition!  $27 for a bottle of 100% rye whisky that is perfectly balanced without bitterness, bite or any offensive qualities, yet at the same time sufficiently interesting that you will have no hesitation in returning to time and time again for another reward of artisan rye bread, caramelized oak flavors and a nice lingering finish.

I am not a fan of the standard bottling of Canadian Club, and so was really leery about this brand extension, but I had a friend that insisted it was worth a go, so tried it and was really impressed.  The price may be cheap, but the quality is there.  I did read somewhere that Beam-Suntory (brand owner) put a lot of thought into the price, and the theory is that they are trying to lure in younger consumers who cannot afford higher price points.  This could have easily been priced $15 higher, and would have found a market waiting for it.

This is a highly recommended bottle for someone who is wondering what is the big deal about Canadian whisky and interested in a fine example of this whisky category that can be enjoyed neat.

Cheers!



Jason Debly

P.S.  As much as I like Canadian Club Chairman's Select 100% Rye, I cannot say the same for another Canadian Club release Canadian Club Small Batch Classic 12 yrs.  The latter is too sweet, cheap caramel notes, overly oaked and the nose is raw rubbing alcohol the nurse swabs your shoulder with before the big needle!  Not recommended.

Review: Crown Royal Cask No. 16

The most famous and best selling of all Canadian whiskies is, without a doubt, Crown Royal.  A brand that has been around for a long time.  It was created by Canadian entrepreneur Samuel Bronfman, who was in his day, kinda the equivalent of Donald Trump.  Astute businessman, shameless promoter, who could be generous, kind, philanthropic, nasty and ruthless.  A real piece of work.

One of the ways he left his mark in this world was through his obsession with developing a great whisky, and the result was Crown Royal.  Mr. Sam, as he was known, introduced Crown Royal to mark the state visit to Canada of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth in 1939 (In my You Tube video review I incorrectly said the state visit by the King and Queen took place in the mid-1950's).  Clearly, Mr. Sam was a master of marketing, light years ahead of his time.

Sam Bronfman

Davin de Kergommeaux, in his authoritative tome, Canadian Whisky, wrote:

"Bronfman was wealthy and well connected by that time and managed to have the whisky placed aboard the trains carrying the royal couple across Canada.  It was billed as whisky fit for royalty, but there is no evidence that either of them ever tasted it.  Still, it was an instant success with Canadians."

Bronfman continued to play up the tenuous connection to royalty by selling Crown Royal in dark blue/purple faux velvet bags.  What a card!

Brand Variations
While Crown Royal was introduced in 1939, it would be a long time before extensions of the brand would appear in the marketplace.  But, when they did, the sales were impressive, which meant more brand variations.

Crown Royal Reserve appeared in 1992.  Basically it was Crown Royal with a few older whiskies and additional rye in the mash bill for added spice.  Nice.  In 2008, the Special Reserve was re-launched as Reserve.  Other than changing the label, it was the same whisky.  Pretty poor marketing strategy.  They should have taken a page out of Mr. Sam's playbook and linked the launch with a newsworthy event in 2008.  Maybe the election of President Obama?  Or maybe the worst film sequel of 2008: Saw 5

In 2006, Crown Royal XR (extra rare) appeared on the market.  A very expensive release that continues to be bottled to this day. Good hooch, but too rich for my pocket book.

2010 brought us, Crown Royal Black and well, I don't like it.  Tastes like rum.  I like rum, but not when I buy a bottle labeled Canadian whisky.  For those occasions, I want to taste Canadian whisky.  In any event, I reviewed it here.  I was not kind.

2012 saw the release of Crown Royal Maple.  I have not tried it.  It is Crown Royal finished in maple toasted oak.  I understand sales have been very strong, much like the success of Crown Royal Black.  But remember, just as age statements are not a guarantee of quality, neither is robust sales growth.

The Main Event
Crown Royal Cask No. 16 came to market in 2007.  This whisky is basically standard Crown Royal that has been finished for a period of time in oak Cognac casks.  The number "16" refers to the forest region or district of Limousin, France, from which the oak is harvested for the barrels.  I think that is the back story, but if I am wrong, please advise in the comments section.

ABV
40%

Body
Medium body.  Rounded, creamy mouth feel.

Nose (undiluted)
Some faint rye notes, chocolate, brandy, warm fruitcake.

Palate (undiluted)
Rye bread, warm plum pudding, stewed prunes, nutmeg, oatmeal drizzled with brown sugar.

Finish (undiluted)
Dark rum soaked fruit cake.  Subtle spiced oak.

General Impressions
A beautiful Canadian whisky!  Incredibly smooth, balanced, but not boring.  The Cognac cask aging process really imparts the darker fruitcake character of this whisky.  The taste has a slight winey note that works very well.

The smooth character makes this whisky very easy to drink.  Well done!

And now for the bad news . . .
Crown Royal Cask No. 16 has been discontinued.  Production ceased in 2013.  Accordingly, once it is gone, it's gone forever.  Presently, Cask No. 16 still appears on shelves in Canada and the US, and retailers in the US are cutting the price on this great whisky.  I have seen it advertised for $52 a bottle.  A great price.

In Canada, it normally retails between $80 and $100, which is quite expensive for Canadian whisky.  Nevertheless, I paid those prices and I am not disappointed nor feel cheated.  So, if you can get it for less, you are doing well.

Why was it discontinued?  Diageo and I are not on speaking terms.  I send them emails.  They ignore them.  So, I am left to my own devices, which means talking to others in the spirits industry for their theories.  One knowledgeable source speculates that the demise of Cask No. 16 was not due to poor sales, but rather the spectacular sales growth of Crown Royal Black and Maple.  Someone in the company decided to take the resources devoted to Cask No. 16, and devote it to the growth areas of the product line.  Another theory is that the sourcing of the cognac casks might have become problematic in the future.  Who knows?  All I know is that this whisky will be gone forever, except for the bottles I manage to scoop up now.

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Review: Crown Royal Black Canadian Whisky

Colonial Tavern, Toronto, Nov. 21, 1977 Photo by Jean-Luc Ourlin

Let's say I have the opportunity to jam with B.B. King on some blues classics. And let's go further and say Mr. King will graciously play rhythm guitar and while I lay down some lead with my trusty axe.  The notes I hit have to be within the framework or the accepted scales (ie. 12-bar blues) or conventions of blues music.  Otherwise, the jam session will not be a blues jam, just a cacophonous disaster similar to the sounds of flying metal of a Russian satellite hurtling towards earth or Judge Judy chewing out a poor, hapless litigant.  Of course, I can take some chances and toss in some flamenco or maybe bluegrass, but I can't deviate too far.

For example, I cannot, midway through The Thrill Is Gone launch into chunks of a Randy Rhoad's guitar solo taken from his spellbinding performance of Suicide Solution with Ozzy Osbourne.



I just can't do that!  I have too much respect for Mr. King (and the memory  of the late Mr. Rhoads) and besides, the Blues jam would be ruined.

I'm all for innovation, but hey, ya gotta work within a certain framework or paradigm (I can't believe I just uttered that pretentious word).  If you completely disregard your context, you may succeed (very remote chance) or fail miserably (sadly more than likely).

Crown Royal Black Canadian Whisky

Crown Royal (click here for my review) is a towering classic Canadian whisky.  Enormously popular in Canada, the US and UK for its light, delicate fruit, vanilla, slight oak and a zing of rye that is smooth and satisfying to the casual drinker and the whisky nut.  A classic right?  So, why mess with a classic?  Well, if you are multinational company like Diageo (owner of the brand), you are always looking for ways to make more money.  Hence, product line extensions.

Currently, there are six brand variations available: Crown Royal Deluxe (standard bottling); Crown Royal Black; Crown Royal Limited Edition; Crown Royal Reserve; Cask 16; and Crown Royal XR.  Obviously there is money in extending a brand line.  Just ask the suits that own the Famous Grouse brand.  Trouble is . . . you have to make every new edition a little different, innovative, but not to the point that you disconnect from the conventions of your beverage that put you on the map in the first place.  Kinda like my imaginary jam session with B.B. King.

Crown Royal Black is the latest extension of the product line.  Introduced in April 2010 in the United States.  

The concept behind Crown Royal Black is to deliver a robust, full-bodied Canadian whisky with heavy helpings of oak, higher strength (90 proof) and bourbon notes.  Bourbon notes?  Yeah.  But before we address that attempt at innovation in Canadian whisky, let's deal with the most alarming issue when you pour yourself a drink.

It's dark.  I mean seriously dark, amber, and opaque, like divining your significant other's reason for the blackest of moods without the use of words.

Color
What's going on here?  I think serious amounts of E150 (spirit caramel) were added to create the dark near coffee color.  I am not aware of any Canadian whisky or scotch for that matter that is dark as this whisky.  Even 25 year old single malts are not this dark.  An additive was used to get it that dark.  No doubt about it.  That being said, my first reaction is "so what?"  Adding caramel is usually in amounts that is not discernible to taste.  It is done to make the spirit more appealing to the eye and imply considerable aging.  In any case, I think they went over board on this one.


Nose (undiluted)
Cherries, vanilla, floral and perfumed.  Pleasant, masculine, but not what I would call 'refined' or 'memorable.'


Palate (undiluted)
Molasses, dark Christmas fruit cake with lots of rum in the recipe, vanilla, oak and then . . . WTF!(#*@Y*$(:  bourbon?  Yeah, serious bourbon notes.  That sure threw me for a curve.  It is down right odd to taste this amount of bourbon in a Canadian whisky.  If that is not weird enough, you get serious coca cola flavors and that unmistakable soda fizz too.

Finish (undiluted)
The finish is rum like.  I am talking Havana Club 7 years with more of that coca-cola-esque fizz/nip.

General Impressions
If this was served to me in a blind tasting, I would guess it was either an aged, dark rum or a bourbon of some kind.  I would never think of it as a Canadian whisky.  Matter of fact, if they lifted the blindfold off me, I would be shocked to see that I was drinking from a bottle labelled "Crown Royal," as Crown Royal Black has no connection with the standard Crown Royal flavor profile.  None, zero, nada.  The only similarities between these two spirits is the sharing of the same brand name, bottle shape and multinational corporate parent (Diageo).

Crown Royal Black strikes me as a genuine attempt by the master blender to break new ground, by blending a more robust Canadian whisky.  The trouble is that the bourbon notes are over the top, followed by dark rum tastes that goes too far from what makes a Canadian whisky great.  It is not wise to tamper with the immutable conventions of Canadian whisky, but unfortunately they have to their detriment.

I drink this and I am truly baffled.  Does this spirit want to be a rum or a bourbon?  A real existential crisis of sorts is going on.  An unpleasant exorcism is needed from my liquor cabinet.

In general, Canadian whisky is a medium bodied, smooth with a flourish of the spices of rye spirit.  Sure there can be variations where some whiskies are heavier than others or more spiced, but the paradigm does not permit huge bourbon flavors or rum notes.  If you want rum, buy rum.  If you want bourbon, buy American bourbon.  Drink Crown Royal Black and you will not know what to make of it.

On the positive side: (1) it is not biting, in spite of being 90 proof, (2) relatively smooth; (3) works as a party drink on the rocks or with mix.  If you visit the Crown Royal website, they even recommend drinking this on the rocks.  This is a party drink.  It is not intended as a companion to profound fire side chats to be consumed neat as the flames lick the logs and cast off interesting shadows.

For me, Crown Royal Black is an experiment that has failed.  It is baffling, like trying to figure out the meaning of REM lyrics.  The master blender needs to take note of how Randy Rhodes took the conventions of heavy metal guitar to new bounds by gently stretching with a few classical guitar landmarks (scales, minor keys, etc.), but not to the point of confusing the listener.  They still knew they were listening to a great heavy metal song.  Me, I am confused.  I am not sure I am drinking Canadian whisky, but rather some horrible bastardization that can't decide if it wants to be bourbon or dark rum.

There are fans of this whisky, but clearly I am not one of them.  For an alternative opinion try the Canadian Whisky site (click here) for a review by it's critic, Davin de Kergommeaux.

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2011. All rights reserved. Any and all use is prohibited without permission.  Of course, the song "Suicide Solution" belongs to Ozzy Osbourne and the Youtube link is posted merely for nostalgic and educational purposes.  Moreover, all rights concerning the photo of B.B. King are held by the photographer, Jean-Luc Ourlin.

Review: Canadian Club Blended Whisky Aged 30 years

About a month ago, I received email from fellow whisky nuts,  Davin de Kergommeaux (canadianwhisky.org) and Chip Dykstra (The Rum Howler Blog).  These Canadian guys operate their respective spirits review websites, and wanted to know if I was interested in participating in reviewing the same whisky and post simultaneously in front of you, the reader.  You get the bonus of three points of view.  I thought hmmm . . . could be interesting.  It would also be a welcome change for you the reader, who may be tired of my pop culture analogies of how a whisky performs on my untrained palate.  So, I thought, what the hell!  I have nothing to lose . . . other than my dignity, reputation and the budding friendship of two, whacky whisky boob, internet acquaintances.

Canadian Club 30 year old whisky
In 2008, to mark the 150th year of the distillery,  Canadian Club 30 years old was released.  Davin and Chip also selected it as the first of possibly a series of whiskies to be reviewed.

I am Canadian, and so, am familiar with the Canadian Club brand.  In my college days, I drank Crown Royal.  Didn't care for 'CC' as it is often termed lovingly by its' legions of fans.  I found the standard bottling rather sweet, kinda like perfume.  In college, I sought out perfume, but wanted it accompanied by a female body, not a whisky bottle!  That's my knowledge of this brand.  Ok, let's move on to the 30 year old (err whisky that is . . .):

Nose (undiluted)
Fragrant rye, roses and vanilla.

Palate (undiluted)
Big rye flavor that brings to mind certain great American bourbons.  Maple sugar, hickory and massive oak towering overhead.  Nevertheless, the flavors are all in balance with a nice symmetry. 

Finish (undiluted)
Cinnamon and a ginger intensity merging into a fast moving stream of vanilla.  A little spice here at the tail end, but not a lot.

General Impressions
Super smooth.  Balanced.  Polite.  Much like Canadian people abroad.  "Yes, sir" or "Please" or "May I know the time?"  This whisky is not taking any chances, because risk taking in distilling involves the possibility of offending.  No one will take offence here.  Smooth, no nasty, naked alcohol rolling around on the palate.  Everyone has their clothes on at this party. 

So, as a gift for ol' grandad, he'll sure be happy.  A pleasant enough drink.  That's for sure.  But, at nearly $200 a bottle, your more serious whisky fan (me, myself & I) will not be impressed.  Question:  Why?  Answer:  Canadian Club 30 years does not roll out a flavor profile of any great complexity.  You literally taste in the most linear and uninspiring fashion: rye, vanilla and oak followed by cinnamon and ginger on the finish. 













Remember the stodgy narrator, the wheelchair bound criminoligist of the Rocky Horror Picture Show?  What do crowds of college students repeatedly shout at the top of their lungs, the world over, standing defiantly in the aisles, at midnight screenings of that ridiculously funny film?  Boring! Boring! Boring!   

I have the same sentiment as I sip Canadian Club 30 years old.  It's just not doing anything for me.  This whisky is not worth the price.  Buy Gibson's Finest Rare 18 years, another Canadian whisky, that is a fraction of the price, and enjoy a flavor profile that is just as satisfying.  Canadian Club 30 years is proof that age statements are not definitive of quality.

At $200 a bottle, you expect to be 'wowed.'  You want some 'pizazz.'  Not a slice of white bread!  This is vanilla when I am expecting neapolitan flavor ice cream.

Another Opinion?
Ever heard the saying:  "If there is not enough work in a small town for one lawyer, there is always enough for two?"  Same holds true for whisky reviewers.  At least with this review, there is a triumvirate of sorts.  If you want to read the review of a recognized authority of Canadian whisky, visit Davin de Kergommeaux's site here for his take on CC 30.  If you want to read another review of a rum expert, who analyzed Canadian Club 30, try Chip Dykstra's site. 

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2011. All rights reserved.  Poster owns no copyright to image of Rock Horror Picture Show which is posted for the purposes of nostalgia, education and entertainment.

Canadian Whisky Awards - 2010

When you hear the words "Canadian whisky" what comes to mind?  For me, as of late, it has been the fictional character, Don Draper, of the television show, Mad Men, reaching for a bottle of Canadian Club.  Ohh, Don, you're such a lovable 'ol SOB.  Even when you hold a tumbler of CC, you're poking a stick in the eye of Canadian whisky's reputation.  There are so many other Canadian whiskies that are far better.  CC is good with 7-up and that's about it.

Americans buy more Canadian whisky than anyone else.  During Prohibition, that dark time in history when alcohol was banned in the United States, enterprising Canadians were more than happy to meet the US market demand for whisky.  Consumption was strong and the whisky was not great.  Times have changed.

There are now many great Canadian whiskies.  The best site on the web to learn about them is operated by a fellow Canuck, Davin de Kergommeaux (pictured above in a most pensive pose).  Davin's site is aptly entitled "Canadian Whisky" (click here).  He has recently posted the "Canadian Whisky Awards" which recognizes the best Canadian whiskies.  

Check it out!

Cheers!


Jason Debly

Yellow Whisky Journalism = "Canadian whisky: It's called 'brown vodka' for a reason"

What is "yellow journalism?"  Turn to Wikipedia for a definition and you will read:

Yellow journalism or the yellow press is a type of journalism that presents little or no legitimate well-researched news and instead uses eye-catching headlines to sell more newspapers.

I read the following eye-catching headline on the Washington Post site: 

"Canadian whisky: It's called 'brown vodka' for a reason"

Canadian Whisky is brown vodka?  When I saw that headline, I thought, I must read on.  The author of such a provocative headline is a "Mr. Jason Wilson."  Is his article well-researched?  Well reasonsed?  In the fourth and fifth paragraphs of Wilson's article are the following comments:

"Most Canadian whisky (which like Scotch is spelled without the "e") is just awful.  I confirmed that last week, when I did a tasting of the usual Canadian whisky suspects, several purchased in cheap pint-size flasks. I sipped through VO, Canadian Club 6-year-old, Canadian Club 12-year-old, Canadian Mist, Black Velvet, Windsor and the standard Crown Royal (which of course comes in the  nifty purple velvet bag)."

I think Jason Wilson's sample of Canadian whiskies is flawed and of course leads to the inaccurate conclusion.  If I only sample the most mediocre of bourbons like Old Crow and other nasty American whiskies like say Sunnybrook Kentucky Whiskey, it would be quite easy to make the erroneous conclusion that American whisky is revolting. 

With the exception of the standard bottling of Crown Royal, Wilson's whisky sample failed to include middle of the road and great Canadian whiskies like:  Forty Creek Barrel Select, Gibson's Finest Rare 18 years,  Crown Royal XR, Crown Royal Cask No. 16, Glen Breton, Wiser's Small  Batch, Wiser's Very Old 18 years and Wiser's Red Letter.  If he did, he would not have equated the whiskies with brown vodka.

A paragraph later Wilson contradicts himself and admits there are great Canadian whiskies.

"Okay, maybe I'm being too hard on Crown Royal. If I ran out of every bourbon, Scotch and Irish whiskey in my cabinet, I'd be willing to drink standard Crown Royal, which still feels a little pricey at $25. Crown Royal Black, at around $40, is admirable but also pricey for what you get. Even better, I tasted the special Crown Royal Cask No. 16, aged in cognac barrels.  It's an excellent whisky."

In the very next paragraph, he writes that the old standards like Seagram's VO are, nevertheless, "brown vodka."

"As for the other old standards, including my mom's VO, they tasted thin, dull and out of balance, and with a nose that's too marshmallow-sweet. These whiskies clearly are going for the adjective "smooth" at the expense of everything else: complexity, flavor, richness. They showed why Canadian whisky is referred to as "brown vodka," which I might add is somewhat insulting to vodka."  (emphasis added)

So, on the one hand he is saying bottom shelf Canadian whisky is pretty bad, but the high end stuff is great.  Well, that is not a revelation.  Isn't that pretty much a true statement of any merchandise?  I can buy a subcompact Toyota or a Mercedes S class, which one do you think has the superior ride?

Jason Wilson has little credibility as a writer of spirits in my eyes.  Consider what sparked his interest in Canadian whiskies.  He writes in the 11th paragraph of his article:

"I revisited the category because I attended an interesting panel called "The Many Faces of Canadian Whisky" at the Tales of the Cocktail conference in New Orleans a few weeks ago. It was sponsored by Buffalo Trace Distillery, which makes some of the finest American whiskeys, including bourbons such as Eagle Rare, Pappy Van Winkle and Blanton's." (emphasis added)

He revisited the Canadian whisky category because he attended a seminar on Canadian whisky that was sponsored by the American bourbon distillery Buffalo Trace Distillery!  A distiller of American whiskey!  Mr. Wilson you really should check your sources before you rely upon them!  Ever heard of bias or lack of objectivity?  Are you new to journalism?

In light of the above, I respectfully submit that Jason Wilson's article fits the definition of yellow journalism:

". . . a type of journalism that presents little or no legitimate well-researched news and instead uses eye-catching headlines to sell more newspapers." 

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Cartoon Credit: Puck US magazine 1888; Nasty little printer's devils spew forth from the Hoe press in this Puck cartoon of Nov. 21, 1888.  Cartoon copyright expired.

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2012.  All rights reserved.

Review: Gibson's Finest Rare 18 years Canadian Whisky

Soft, light, polite, interesting and talkative, a little complex, but not overly so.  On the one hand, I could be making a generalization about Canadians. Oh hell, you're thinking Wayne Gretzky or Anne Murray crooning "Snow Bird."  Hell, even Candian rock music is polite like Rush and Neil Young.  On the other hand, I might also be making an observation about their whisky. Compared to scotch, Canadian whisky is lighter and sweeter. This is a result of blending. A lot of blending. It is not uncommon for Canadian whisky to have up to 50 different whiskies blended together. They must be at least three years old, but typically are older.

A great attribute of many Canadian whiskies is that while distilled from a wide variety of grains (ie. rye, wheat and corn) in addition to barley, it is rarely grainy in taste. You don’t have to spend a lot of money in order to get a good drink. This may be one of the reasons that Americans buy more Canadian whisky than they do of their own native spirits (ie. bourbon, Tennessee whisky). 

Probably the most famous Canadian whisky is Crown Royal. However, there are others.  One of the less known is Gibson’s Finest Rare 18 years old.  It has always been one of my favorites.  It is a great blend of whiskies resulting in a soft, light spirit with some sweet corn and spiced rye that finishes with a dry flourish. 

Getting infortmation on Gibson's is not easy.  Two books I have on world whisky fail to make any reference to it. Turning to the internet, there is scant information. So, I cannot tell you anything about how long it has been on the market or any other interesting factoid. There is a website, but it is hardly informative.  In fact, I visit the site and think it would discourage a whisky drinker.  Loud alternative rock music targeting a youthful, college age demographic that I am no longer a member of is the aim of the Gibson's site.  Never mind the website. It’s all about the flavor.

Nose (undiluted)

It seems every time I pull the cork on this bottle, I am hit with a sickening waft of pure alcohol. But don’t worry, it passes and in no way is a reflection on what follows.

In the glass, the nose is not offensive, but not memorable. I smell corn. Reminiscent of bourbon. Canadian whisky tends not to be floral on the nose and this is no exception. I am detecting some vanilla. The aromas of this Canadian whisky are very restrained.  Nothing special.

Body

For a Canadian whisky it is full bodied, but compared to Scotch, it would be considered light, along the lines of Cragganmore, Glenkinchie or Glen Scotia.

Palate (undiluted)

There is a sweetness of corn chased by some spicy rye. But, don’t worry, not too spicy. Remember, it’s Canadian eh, renowned for smoothness.  Hmmm . . . good. Oak, citrus, cooked fruit, maybe stewed apples. Vanilla is there too.

Finish (undiluted)

Long, lingering, velvet finish of brown sugar and a spiciness that dries expansively with the warmth of a woodstove. The flavors really hang for a long time. Impressive.

A sign of many great whiskies is the ability to start out sweet, but gracefully transition to a dry as tumble weed, tart finish. Gibson’s Finest does this beautifully.

Ice?
Ice and Canadian whisky go well together and are particularly refreshing during the summer months.  This whisky is very smooth and inviting.  Ice is not needed to tame the flavor profile.  It's a personal decision.  Neat or with ice, you will definitely enjoy it.

The Price is Right!
Don't worry Bob Barker is retired and I am not taking Drew Carey's job.  For an 18 year old whisky, I think the price is reasonable.  Not a steal of a deal, but a fair price.

General Impressions

Gibson’s Finest Rare 18 years is an excellent whisky and would make the perfect gift for the person you know likes whisky in general, but knowing nothing more as to likes or dislikes. Gibson’s manages to be instantly likable, but not boring. There is a complexity of flavor that reels the drinker in for more and more.  There's no fancy marketing campaign, just the quiet, humble Canadian way.  Give it a try!  You won't regret it.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

Copyright © Jason Debly, 2009-2010. All rights reserved.

Woodford Reserve - A Great American Bourbon!

Bourbon - A less than stellar reputation

A lot of people shudder at the thought of having a drink of bourbon. This is understandable because a lot of what is available on the market tastes like rubbing alcohol distilled by some unclean mountain boys out of The Deliverance for the sole purpose of intoxication. Sipping some bourbons involves submitting to a burn down the throat, headed to the stomach and immediately you have to fight the urge for it to bounce back up from whence it came.In general, Woodford Reserve departs from such negative experiences. I say "in general" because it is a distillery which has been plagued with chronic quality control problems. Specifically, one hand crafted batch (each batch is numbered) can be divine, while the next belongs with its bretheren in the previous paragraph. Please understand that not every other bottle is flawed. I am just highlighting past issues with quality of production. I believe the distillery is keenly aware of this issue and is addressing it. So, bearing that in mind, if you sample this bourbon and you find it flawed, then consider taking it back to the store and exchanging it for another.This bourbon we can drink today has a long history (don't they all) that starts back in Versailles, Kentucky in 1812. Bourbon is an uniquely American invention and Kentucky is the state that put it on the map. In fact, the Woodford Reserve distillery is one of nine of the oldest in Kentucky and the US for that matter. It hasn't always operated under the name of Woodford Reserve, that is a recent development of 2003.Anyway, lets move to the most important topic, the taste!

Nose

Vanilla and charcoal

Palate

Lots of vanilla! More charcoal, spice and ginger accompanies, sweetness (but not too sweet) that flows towards a floral finish. There is a "burn", slight, not too bad, but rather characteristic of bourbon. If this is an aspect that bothers you, the solution is ice, couple of cubes takes the burn away. A complex arrangement of flavors that can appropriately be described as sophisticated and rich. I initially tried this bourbon at a whisky tasting and days later, I was still thinking about. So, I bought a bottle and enjoyed a very refined drink of complexity I never imagined was possible from bourbon.

Finish

Oak and rye linger on the palate in a highly refined manner.  Please note that when you first open the bottle, there may be a unpleasant burn lingering in the throat but this should become less of an issue after a couple of weeks open.

Impressions

I have had Woodford Reserve on several occasions. What I have noticed is that the quality can vary depending on the "batch." Each bottle is numbered. Some batchs are very good while a flawed bottle can be a little off or even dreadful. I have tasted perfection in one bottle and poison in another. It is not just me making this observation, reviewers on other sites like Whiskey Magazine's website have threads that note quality variation issues. Of several bottles purchased, only one was flawed. I would not allow this quality assurance issue dissuade you from purchasing it.When its good, it is great. When its bad, it can range from tolerably flawed to an impossibly metallic, copper burn of a dram.My suggestion is that if you buy this bourbon, make sure that you can return it if it turns out to be flawed. You are probably wondering why I would recommend this bourbon in light of the above comments about quality consistency issues. Well, the simple reason is I believe the distiller is tackling the problem and the risk/reward ration makes it worth it if you can return a flawed bottle. How will you know if it is flawed? It will taste metallic like it sat in a copper vat too long with an awful burn across the palate and down the throat upon swallowing. When its a good bottle, it is something to behold.  Another drawback is the price. It is a little high compared to others. I think there is a value for money problem.  Competitors like Knob Creek and Maker's Mark are the same price but better over all.  So, in conclusion, if you like bourbon or know somebody who does, this might be an interesting alternative to the traditional mainstream bottles you or your friend usually go to. It also happens to be the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby!

Cheers!

© Jason Debly, 2009-2010. All rights reserved.

P.S.  I have an updated review available at this link.

Crown Royal - Canadian Whisky

I know that my blog is focused on scotch reviews, but I am making an exception to review this great Canadian whisky.

Introducing a Fine Canadian Whisky

Crown Royal is enormously popular in the US, as well as elsewhere in the world. The reason for the popularity comes as no surprise to those who are familiar with this spirit. Crown Royal is pleasant, easy-drinking, refined yet versatile. It is versatile in the sense that there are a number of ways to enjoy it. Neat, on the rocks, mixed with ginger ale, coke, or as an ingredient in mixed drinks.

Crown Royal is comprised exclusively of Canadian whiskies.  Distillation of the whiskies comprising Crown Royal is carried out at an enormous group of buildings in Gimli, Manitoba.  This whisky achieves its' unique and complex flavor by way of the distillation of several different grains, namely: barley, corn, rye and wheat. These grains are then aged in both new oak casks and also used ones that previously housed wine.  The combination of varying ages and storage casks produce the whisky, which of course is blended.  In this standard Crown Royal bottling, the majority of composite whiskies are young, though there are a few older ones added.  Of course, as you progress into the more expensive product offerings like the Limited Edition, Special Reserve and Crown Royal XR, the whiskies used are more aged imparting terrific complexity.

Serving Suggestion

I enjoy Crown Royal in a crystal tumbler neat but also from time to time with two ice cubes.

Nose

Faint notes of vanilla and fresh out-of-the-oven lemon bread. No scent of alcohol here, which is nice.

Palate

A sip of this will introduce the taster to gentle vanilla and honey. "Delicate" in a word is a way of describing how these flavors intermingle. You will also note faint oak in the background, which no doubt was contributed to by the time spent aging in barrels of all the whiskies composing this spirit.

Finish

Light, balanced and almost instantly the flavor is gone, prompting the taster to sip once more (a potentially intoxicating endeavour).

Final Thoughts

This is certainly an enjoyable drinking experience. Crown Royal is more sophisticated and smoother than other Canadian whiskies like Canadian Club or Royal Reserve. While the smooth character of this whisky is pleasing and a source of pleasure, it is also a source of disappointment for the whisky connoisseur seeking a thought provoking flavor profile.  The connoisseur who wants to sit with a tumbler of this whisky and plumb the fathoms of its flavor will be disappointed quickly because the flavour while delicate and smooth will quickly bore such an individual who is looking for "complexity" of flavor.

Another source of disappointment for the serious whisky afficianado is the short finish. There is virtually no lingering of flavor. Its gone as quickly as you swallow it. It should be noted there is no "burn" when swallowed. Its that smooth!  I like Crown Royal for what it is: an easy drinking whisky to be enjoyed with friends while socializing. When I am in the mood to sit in my lazy boy and treat myself to a complex whisky, I would not choose this whisky, but rather would opt for a single malt Scotch.

Cheers!

Jason Debly

P.S.  Are you looking for a review of Crown Royal Black?  If so, click here.

© Jason Debly, 2009-2013. All rights reserved.