A good friend of mine (though I would never tell him I consider him as such, given my faux-British stiff-upper lip adoption caused by filling my teen years binging on Fawlty Towers, The Fall and Rise of Reginald Perrin and Churchill documentaries) did gift me for my birthday a bottle of Aultmore 12 years Single Malt.
I had seen this bottle as a newcomer to the shelves of the local liquor store, but wasn't keen on buying a totally unknown commodity. I mean who has heard of Aultmore? I did a quick internet search and learned that this distillery is basically a source malt for what goes in Dewar's blended whisky. Not the strongest lineage in the whisky world. I mean we all know about Highland Park, Macallan and others, but Aultmore? The name sounds like a medical condition. I can just imagine my near centenarian doctor with his bifocals low on the bridge of his beak as he peers at me with clear disdain and says with a hint of Lanchashire, "you've Aultmore of the privates m'boy and it has spread to the lower GI tract."
Not expensive, but not the cheapest 12 year old single malt. It is priced moderately and does boast on its packaging non-chill filtration and no artificial colour. Plus it weighs in at a hefty 46% ABV so that could augur some complexity of flavour or disaster. As you know friend, only one way to find out.
Region
Speyside
Category
Single Malt
ABV
46%
Artificial Color?
No!
Chill filtration?
No!
Wood Management
Ex-Bourbon casks. Not tasting any ex-sherry casks. Don't believe any are used.
Nose (undiluted)
Floral notes of dandelion, roses, apple blossoms, honey sweetness and butter. Very balanced and pleasing drawing you in again and again.
Palate (undiluted)
Powerful burst of graprefruit and pears. Honey, fruit cup syrup (in a good way!), golden wheat, barley, vanilla, banana, English cream and custard.
Finish (undiluted)
Cream, lemons, sea salt, limes. The flavors linger a long time!
Add Water?
Yeah, you could but you would rob yourself of the wonderful complexity of this single malt. When you have no artificial color, no chill filtration and a higher ABV, that is a recipe for greater complexity and you get it here!
Peer Review
If you like Chivas Regal 12, 18, Dalwhinnie and Glenfiddich 15 Solera you are gonna love Aultmore 12.
Conclusion
Friend, I love this stuff!
It's affordable, non-chillfiltered, no artificial colour and a high ABV of 46%. All of these factors plus the Master Blender's tremendous talent in never letting this malt taste hot or fiery makes it a must buy. Amazing that a whisky devoid of smoke, peat and sherry can be so good, but it is. Put it on your list! It's good for what ails you! Especially if you contract Aultmore of the privates!
The brittle leaves, once green, had turned custard yellow, clay brown, red, purple and every stained-glass shade in between. Nippy autumn gusts had scattered the kaleidoscopic foliage all over Roger's lawn.
Our friend had invited Keith and I over this sunny Saturday afternoon to ostensibly hang out, but what he really wanted was cheap labor to rake his yard. While I look fairly rugged in my fir green waxed cotton Barbour and Keith in his worn and patched M65 field jacket, we are actually fairly averse to perspiration. Yes, I know, shocking.
So, we were not warming up to these weekend plans, and instead made collective faux groans of tiredness over steaming espresso. We hoped this near maudlin tactic tinged with a wee larceny would elicit some attempt at bribery from our good friend.
"You guys are shameless," Roger muttered in an Italian sandwhich bistro that morning. He was sipping steaming Earl Grey with extra bergamot, and staring off at college-grade abstract canvasses hanging on the opposite exposed reddish-brown brick wall. Suzanne Vega echoed off the terra-cotta tile floor. Roger liked this quirky artist friendly cafe with the gently whirring ceiling fans, skylights and glass bead doorway separating the kitchen from behind the counter. A place where hemp necklaces, eyebrow piercings, Birkenstocks and back issues of Mother Jones did not seem out of the ordinary. Patrons sip from recycled paper cups containing unbleached tea bags while their sedate, eco-friendly Subarus and Volvo wagons lie in wait curb side.
"Shameless? Maybe," I thought to myself, and as if on cue, Keith and I resumed to catalogue our respective aches and pains to the point of harmonizing like Crosby, Stills & Nash at Woodstock. Suzanne would have jammed with us if only her tour schedule permitted it.
After some back and forth, we negotiated in exchange for our highly sought rake-wielding skill set: barbecued steaks in Cabernet-thyme sauce, adorned with pan fried mushrooms and sweet red onions, baguette, Gorgonzola cheese, spicy frites, and some Saint-Émilion vin Rog had tucked away. I would supply the whisky. Keith agreed to bear half that cost when he got paid next week, which meant I would bear the full cost.
Now, you may think that we were taking Roger for a ride, but he was paying for more than Fall leaf removal. I had expertise to deliver in whisky meal pairing that he would benefit from for years.
I had to earn my supper, so I started thinking.
The question I had to ponder is what is an appropriate whisky in autumn that suitably compliments a steak-frites meal.
A Fall whisky has to be heavy. Fairy dust light Lowland Scotches like Glenkinchie and Auchentoshan are for Spring.
Islay?
Never with grilled steak!
Islay is for seafood. Pair your Ardbeg with oysters or pan fried scallops in butter, a match made in heaven.
What about Speyside honey and spice whiskies like Cragganmore 12, Glenfiddich 15 and Dalwhinnie?
No! Absolutely not! They are orchid delicate. The flavours and complexity are blotted out by the barbecued tenderloin and the spicy frites.
You need a malt flavour profile that can go toe-to-toe with a Gorgonzola and still be there in the 12th round!
You need a sherried malt, hell, a sherry bomb. Think GlenDronach, Glenfarclas, Macallan, Balvenie 15. So, in that vein, I thought I would try something new: Tomatin 18 years. The Tomatin 14 years in Portwood was a dream and suitable, so the 18 should be better.
Tomatin 18 years single malt Scotch is aged for fifteen years in bourbon hogsheads (purportedly Maker's Mark), and then finished for a further three years in first fill Oloroso sherry butts. With an ABV of 46% this non-chill filtered malt should have the strength of flavour and character to not be bullied over by barbecued steak in rustic Gaulic gravy.
Nose (undiluted)
Powerful, punchy red fruit, you smell sherry big time, but woody too, all chased by Cabernet Sauvignon notes.
Palate (undiluted)
Sweet red licorice quickly turning to bold sherry. Mid-palate there is a transition to steak spice, Montreal Steak Spice, Lea and Perrins, or in other words Worcester sauce.
Finish (undiluted)
Tarragon, sage, summer savoury, oak, too woody, damp wood, and in some way is spoilt. Part your lips and breath and taste stale cigarette.
General Impressions
For an 18 year old single malt, this disappoints. It lacks complexity of flavours, the sherry tastes old, stale and somehow spoilt. There is a funkiness, a barnyard quality and Worcester sauce on the finish that makes you wish you had your money back. My gut feeling is that there is a problem with wood management. The quality of casks is just not up to snuff.
This bottle is not flawed, its just a style of whisky with less than ideal ex-sherry casks. It tastes a lot like Tobermory, another less than stellar sherried malt.
Many 12 year old sherried malts would deliver equally well, if not better: GlenDronach 12 comes to mind.
. . .
What did Roger think?
He liked the funky finish of barnyard and spoilt sherry. He said it was distinctly French and something uncouth Anglophones like me could not understand. That's ok, I am content to listen to a Francophile, hailing from Lancashire, spout forth, as I smoke his last Cuban. I can be bought, just not cheaply. So can Keith, our Chinese Canadian friend, who takes another swig of Saint-Émilion vin. We can even endure some more Suzanne Vega, if need be.
20,000 bottles released to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the distillery.
Price
Varies widely, but in New Hampshire I paid $60. Reasonable but I have seen some very high prices elsewhere in excess of $100 (not reasonable).
Wood Management
Aged exclusively in refill bourbon casks. No ex-sherry casks involved.
Nose (undiluted)
Without water, the aromas that lift out of your glass are delightful. Minty, hickory wood, seaside bonfire, hint of banana and lemons too. Add water and these aromas are blurred.
Palate (diluted)
You really have to add some water given the 48% ABV. With a little water you will get big time salt, loads of hard, coarse salt, custard and of course smoke and peat. There are green minty notes with wet wood smoke too.
Finish (diluted)
Dry zing of black peppercorns, dry ginger, camphor, menthol and phenolic notes abound.
General Impressions
This is a bold expression from the Lagavulin distillery that serves up lively peat and smoke, lemon zest and banana, plus some wood char. It is really comparable in taste to Ardbeg 10 or Laphroaig Quarter Cask.
Lagavulin 8 years is a youthful, robust peat bomb in a glass. Do not think of this whisky as a younger version of Lagavulin 16 years. They are very different whiskies.
Definitely peat and smoke fans of Islay malts will enjoy, but if Islay malts are not your cup of tea, then probably best to avoid this expression and opt for something that is gentler like an easy going blend (Islay Mist, White Horse, etc.). Personally, I prefer a more refined taste of the 16 year old Lagavulin, but that is a different malt all together given the aging in sherry casks and much older malts.
I know that the title of my blog is "Jason's Scotch Reviews." Nevertheless, I do add in the occasional review of another spirit when it is truly remarkable and I suspect my readers might be interested. Mount Gay Rum is such a spirit worthy of note.
Remember that All-Inclusive Caribbean Resort . . .
You know how you go down to Barbados, Jamaica, St. Lucia or another Caribbean island resort and find the rum and coke or rum based mixed drinks taste so much better than back home, and you can't figure it out because when you get back home, you buy the Bacardis or the Captain Morgan or whatever, make up your drink and it doesnt taste the same and you are dumbfounded and disappointed. Well, the reason for it is not the sunshine, the sandy beach, bath water temperature ocean at your feet and that hot tourist looking at you longingly. The reason is the rum. The rum you are drinking "down de island mon" is Mount Gay, mon, made from sugar cane, processed into molasses, aged in bourbon casks and served up in your drink. And guess what? They sell it in the United States. You just have to look for it, and if you are a little insecure, have a heart to heart with yourself and acknowledge that the name of this splendid spirit has no bearing on your sexual orientation.
Not Well Known in North America
This is not a well known rum in North America mainly due, I suspect, to a lack of advertising. In fact, I cannot recall any advertisements in the media. While it is not a bestseller, it is, without a doubt, a superior rum to all of its peers, without exception, and I am not exaggerating. People who know rum quickly acknowledge that it is very, very good. More people would drink it if it was more widely available. Needless to say, I am a huge fan of this rum, and the aim of this review is to convince you to try it.
A Message to the Rum Drinkers
I have a number of friends who identify themselves as principally, rum drinkers. A badge of honor of sorts, much like scotch and wine nuts, a category that I fall into. These rum drinking friends of mine are "Bacardi" or "Captain Morgan" drinkers or some other popular brand that have advertising campaigns that centre on pirate themes (a theme that struck fear into the hearts or should I say bowels of men during the last century, now seem to impress us). When I tell these guys they should try "Mount Gay" there is usually a snicker followed by some locker room reply like "sure, tinkerbell, I'll get right on that." So, I usually bring a bottle along to these neighborhood barbecues where the testosterone is coursing through the air much like fists flying at an Irish wake (ok, a little politically incorrect, but I am Irish, so I can make the dig). Matter of fact, I mixed one of these guys a rum and coke, handed it to him and said "drink! youfool" (complete with the Mr. T enunciation). He accepted it because it was free. A couple of swigs and he was nodding his approval. "Smooth, man, smooth. . ." He would be reaching for other words but not finding them. So, let me try. . .
Please Allow Me to Introduce Myself . . .
Mount Gay Eclipse Rum is produced in Barbados and this distiller claims quite legitimately to be one of the oldest rum producers in the world. This is indeed true. Rum has been produced for over 300 hundred years in the northern part of the island. Matter of fact, a Lieutenant William Gay and Ensign Abel Gay, back in 1663, bought a parcel of land in northern Barbados that came to be known as the "St. Lucy Estate." Since 1703, rum has been produced continuously from sugar cane, spring water and molasses. It is the sugar cane that gives it a very distinctive and inviting flavor that simply cannot be replicated by the big multinational conglomerates.So, now let's turn to the task at hand. A tasting note if you will:
Suggested Serving
In a nice crystal tumbler with some heft to it, mix yourself a double rum and coke. You might not be accustomed to mixing doubles (so do let me introduce you) as this rum is so smooth that you can luxuriate in the flavors without any and I mean any "bite" that you would normally associate with a double rum. So, indulge me on this point. You will thank me later.
Nose
Normally, rum is not known for being particularly friendly to the nose. Usually one has a fear of acetone inhallation. This rum does smell of alcohol, but beyond that there is some pleasing fragrance to be had. Some vanilla on the nose is what I detect.
Palate
Take in a generous mouthful, hold it for a sec, and you will experience very smooth and sweet vanilla flavors complimenting the classic rum notes of this wonderful drink. You will detect some oak, molasses and sugar cane.
Finish
And now for the grand finale, you swallow. Your brain tells you that you made a double and now you must brace yourself for the "bite" of the alcohol. Though you may brace yourself, the "bite" never comes. In its' place will be silky waves of more sweet vanilla/oak tinged rum that is swallowed. You will be emotionally transported back to that all-inclusive resort where you last tasted a rum and coke this wonderful.Having downed the drink, there is no accompanying burn or heat, just the faintest embers of warmth (like the camp fire on the sandy beach), and the flavor is gone, leaving you with the enviable task of considering when to take another drink.
General Impressions
When I drink this rum, I am impressed by how smooth and totally inoffensive this rum is. Words like "silk", "refined" and "polished" seem most appropriate. You can pour your drinks very strong yet, they are smooth and still no bite. That is how smooth it is.It was only two weekends ago that I introduced my friend to this rum at the barbecue and a week later he sheepishly told me he picked up a bottle until his wife piped up and said "I had to go in and buy it. He made me. Next time he can buy it and I will take a marker and change the "G" in Gay to a "B" so that his buddies will think he is drinking 'Mount Bay". In that way his manhood remains intact."
Bottom Line
Buy this rum. You will not be disappointed. I normally do not like rum, but I make an exception for this one. Buy it!
A lot of people shudder at the thought of having a drink of bourbon. This is understandable because a lot of what is available on the market tastes like rubbing alcohol distilled by some unclean mountain boys out of The Deliverance for the sole purpose of intoxication. Sipping some bourbons involves submitting to a burn down the throat, headed to the stomach and immediately you have to fight the urge for it to bounce back up from whence it came.In general, Woodford Reserve departs from such negative experiences. I say "in general" because it is a distillery which has been plagued with chronic quality control problems. Specifically, one hand crafted batch (each batch is numbered) can be divine, while the next belongs with its bretheren in the previous paragraph. Please understand that not every other bottle is flawed. I am just highlighting past issues with quality of production. I believe the distillery is keenly aware of this issue and is addressing it. So, bearing that in mind, if you sample this bourbon and you find it flawed, then consider taking it back to the store and exchanging it for another.This bourbon we can drink today has a long history (don't they all) that starts back in Versailles, Kentucky in 1812. Bourbon is an uniquely American invention and Kentucky is the state that put it on the map. In fact, the Woodford Reserve distillery is one of nine of the oldest in Kentucky and the US for that matter. It hasn't always operated under the name of Woodford Reserve, that is a recent development of 2003.Anyway, lets move to the most important topic, the taste!
Nose
Vanilla and charcoal
Palate
Lots of vanilla! More charcoal, spice and ginger accompanies, sweetness (but not too sweet) that flows towards a floral finish. There is a "burn", slight, not too bad, but rather characteristic of bourbon. If this is an aspect that bothers you, the solution is ice, couple of cubes takes the burn away. A complex arrangement of flavors that can appropriately be described as sophisticated and rich. I initially tried this bourbon at a whisky tasting and days later, I was still thinking about. So, I bought a bottle and enjoyed a very refined drink of complexity I never imagined was possible from bourbon.
Finish
Oak and rye linger on the palate in a highly refined manner. Please note that when you first open the bottle, there may be a unpleasant burn lingering in the throat but this should become less of an issue after a couple of weeks open.
Impressions
I have had Woodford Reserve on several occasions. What I have noticed is that the quality can vary depending on the "batch." Each bottle is numbered. Some batchs are very good while a flawed bottle can be a little off or even dreadful. I have tasted perfection in one bottle and poison in another. It is not just me making this observation, reviewers on other sites like Whiskey Magazine's website have threads that note quality variation issues. Of several bottles purchased, only one was flawed. I would not allow this quality assurance issue dissuade you from purchasing it.When its good, it is great. When its bad, it can range from tolerably flawed to an impossibly metallic, copper burn of a dram.My suggestion is that if you buy this bourbon, make sure that you can return it if it turns out to be flawed. You are probably wondering why I would recommend this bourbon in light of the above comments about quality consistency issues. Well, the simple reason is I believe the distiller is tackling the problem and the risk/reward ration makes it worth it if you can return a flawed bottle. How will you know if it is flawed? It will taste metallic like it sat in a copper vat too long with an awful burn across the palate and down the throat upon swallowing. When its a good bottle, it is something to behold. Another drawback is the price. It is a little high compared to others. I think there is a value for money problem. Competitors like Knob Creek and Maker's Mark are the same price but better over all. So, in conclusion, if you like bourbon or know somebody who does, this might be an interesting alternative to the traditional mainstream bottles you or your friend usually go to. It also happens to be the official bourbon of the Kentucky Derby!
I bought a bottle of Old Pulteney 12 yr single malt Scotch tonight because I had read a lot of positive comments about it on a couple of whiskey website forums that I participate on. Moreover, Jim Murray, whisky authority, wrote that this whisky is "unashamedly excellent and deserves so much more recognition around the world." I had to decide for myself whether or not this single malt scotch is deserving of such praise.
Palate (undiluted)
Salty taste of the foaming sea, lemon rind, rosewood, a hint of Ocean Spray Cranberry Cocktail, faint oak.
Finish (undiluted)
Short but interesting. Notes of bacon, mackerel, kippers but rhubarb too, ginger and lemon again.
General Impressions
The lasting impression of drinking this is that of sea water. Just not very interesting. Simple in a word. It may be somewhat intriguing for some in terms of this sea salt based flavor profile which finishes with some lemon and a cleansing saline zest. Not what I would call a complex single malt. This whisky is decent and reminds me of what comes out of Scapa. Frequently on sale and that is when you want to grab it.
In terms of the praise for this scotch, it is not deserved, and I think Mr. Murray was given to a little hyperbole when he described this whisky as "unashamedly excellent." It's 'good' but not 'excellent.' The flavors offered up are different than what is encountered in most other single malts, but, as I said above, the problem is that it is not complex and at times one thinks they are just drinking salt water out of the bottom of a beached boat.
P.S. While I am not a huge fan of this single malt, one of my regular readers is. Adam's positive review is available by clicking here.
I know that my blog is focused on scotch reviews, but I am making an exception to review this great Canadian whisky.
Introducing a Fine Canadian Whisky
Crown Royal is enormously popular in the US, as well as elsewhere in the world. The reason for the popularity comes as no surprise to those who are familiar with this spirit. Crown Royal is pleasant, easy-drinking, refined yet versatile. It is versatile in the sense that there are a number of ways to enjoy it. Neat, on the rocks, mixed with ginger ale, coke, or as an ingredient in mixed drinks.
Crown Royal is comprised exclusively of Canadian whiskies. Distillation of the whiskies comprising Crown Royal is carried out at an enormous group of buildings in Gimli, Manitoba. This whisky achieves its' unique and complex flavor by way of the distillation of several different grains, namely: barley, corn, rye and wheat. These grains are then aged in both new oak casks and also used ones that previously housed wine. The combination of varying ages and storage casks produce the whisky, which of course is blended. In this standard Crown Royal bottling, the majority of composite whiskies are young, though there are a few older ones added. Of course, as you progress into the more expensive product offerings like the Limited Edition, Special Reserve and Crown Royal XR, the whiskies used are more aged imparting terrific complexity.
Serving Suggestion
I enjoy Crown Royal in a crystal tumbler neat but also from time to time with two ice cubes.
Nose
Faint notes of vanilla and fresh out-of-the-oven lemon bread. No scent of alcohol here, which is nice.
Palate
A sip of this will introduce the taster to gentle vanilla and honey. "Delicate" in a word is a way of describing how these flavors intermingle. You will also note faint oak in the background, which no doubt was contributed to by the time spent aging in barrels of all the whiskies composing this spirit.
Finish
Light, balanced and almost instantly the flavor is gone, prompting the taster to sip once more (a potentially intoxicating endeavour).
Final Thoughts
This is certainly an enjoyable drinking experience. Crown Royal is more sophisticated and smoother than other Canadian whiskies like Canadian Club or Royal Reserve. While the smooth character of this whisky is pleasing and a source of pleasure, it is also a source of disappointment for the whisky connoisseur seeking a thought provoking flavor profile. The connoisseur who wants to sit with a tumbler of this whisky and plumb the fathoms of its flavor will be disappointed quickly because the flavour while delicate and smooth will quickly bore such an individual who is looking for "complexity" of flavor.
Another source of disappointment for the serious whisky afficianado is the short finish. There is virtually no lingering of flavor. Its gone as quickly as you swallow it. It should be noted there is no "burn" when swallowed. Its that smooth! I like Crown Royal for what it is: an easy drinking whisky to be enjoyed with friends while socializing. When I am in the mood to sit in my lazy boy and treat myself to a complex whisky, I would not choose this whisky, but rather would opt for a single malt Scotch.
Cheers!
Jason Debly
P.S. Are you looking for a review of Crown Royal Black? If so, click here.
